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No Power to Coils - 99' CBR F4 600

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  #31  
Old 03-09-2024, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DrogaLoko
i see, so the grn/wht wire has to be grounded and show no resistance for spark to return?
Yes. only way ignitor will trigger spark is when grn/wht wire is earthed. Honda designed it this way.

Doesn’t matter if ignitor works or not if grn/wht wire not earthed. Bad or brand-new ignitor will not work if grn/wht wire not earthed. Imagine if you disconnected battery from bike and tossed it in river. Then complained about bike not working because ignitor must be bad! Completely distinct separate unrelated problems. You have more than one of them.

Here’s diagram. You’ll need it to troubleshoot fuel-pump relays as well. Don’t get cause and effect mixed up. Pump-relay’s not getting power and that’s not because it’s defective. Imagine your kitchen light not turning on and you measure ZERO voltage going to bulb. Can you blame bulb for being defective if no power’s reaching it? What sends power to kitchen bulb and pump relay? WIRES!!!

Bottom line: you’ve got wiring problems. The sooner you get out of “parts swapping” mindset and into “test, measure and solder” mindset, the sooner you’ll get this working.



ok, more tests at ignitor connector (garbage in -> garbage out).
Disconnect ignitor and put aside in static-free safe place.
Key ON, stop-switch=RUN

1. Set meter to measure peak AC volts. Connect probes to wht/yel & yel terminals at ignitor connector. Crank engine for 5s. Peak VAC=???

2. Measure DC voltage at blk wire terminal, volts = ???

3. Measure resistance between grn wire terminal and chassis-earth, ohms = ???

4. At sidestand harness connector, measure resistance between grn wire terminal and chassis-earth, ohms = ???
 

Last edited by dannoxyz; 03-09-2024 at 04:17 PM.
  #32  
Old 03-10-2024, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by dannoxyz
Yes. only way ignitor will trigger spark is when grn/wht wire is earthed. Honda designed it this way.

Doesn’t matter if ignitor works or not if grn/wht wire not earthed. Bad or brand-new ignitor will not work if grn/wht wire not earthed. Imagine if you disconnected battery from bike and tossed it in river. Then complained about bike not working because ignitor must be bad! Completely distinct separate unrelated problems. You have more than one of them.

Here’s diagram. You’ll need it to troubleshoot fuel-pump relays as well. Don’t get cause and effect mixed up. Pump-relay’s not getting power and that’s not because it’s defective. Imagine your kitchen light not turning on and you measure ZERO voltage going to bulb. Can you blame bulb for being defective if no power’s reaching it? What sends power to kitchen bulb and pump relay? WIRES!!!

Bottom line: you’ve got wiring problems. The sooner you get out of “parts swapping” mindset and into “test, measure and solder” mindset, the sooner you’ll get this working.



ok, more tests at ignitor connector (garbage in -> garbage out).
Disconnect ignitor and put aside in static-free safe place.
Key ON, stop-switch=RUN

1. Set meter to measure peak AC volts. Connect probes to wht/yel & yel terminals at ignitor connector. Crank engine for 5s. Peak VAC=???

2. Measure DC voltage at blk wire terminal, volts = ???

3. Measure resistance between grn wire terminal and chassis-earth, ohms = ???

4. At sidestand harness connector, measure resistance between grn wire terminal and chassis-earth, ohms = ???
  1. 12.5 V
  2. 0.02 Ohms
  3. 1.5 Ohms
1st test ill run tommorow morning and keep you updated (dont want to wake up the folks)

I also ran the resistance of LG wire which lets the computer know if its in neutral and got a high resistance 20 - 100+ ohms after removing the wire from its stud base i found corrosion (though small) had built up, corrosion tends to almost weld connections so its no surprise that i found even more corrosion related to this wire in the red connector (has multiple wires as well) which was a pain in the *** to remove i cleaned both connections with a degreaser/anti corrosion spray i use on electrical vehicles (80V Batteries) in my jobsite will let it dry up and brush and clean if needed. Thank you and your correct I shouldn’t just be loading up the parts cannon

 

Last edited by DrogaLoko; 03-10-2024 at 03:33 AM.
  #33  
Old 03-11-2024, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dannoxyz
Yes. only way ignitor will trigger spark is when grn/wht wire is earthed. Honda designed it this way.

Doesn’t matter if ignitor works or not if grn/wht wire not earthed. Bad or brand-new ignitor will not work if grn/wht wire not earthed. Imagine if you disconnected battery from bike and tossed it in river. Then complained about bike not working because ignitor must be bad! Completely distinct separate unrelated problems. You have more than one of them.

Here’s diagram. You’ll need it to troubleshoot fuel-pump relays as well. Don’t get cause and effect mixed up. Pump-relay’s not getting power and that’s not because it’s defective. Imagine your kitchen light not turning on and you measure ZERO voltage going to bulb. Can you blame bulb for being defective if no power’s reaching it? What sends power to kitchen bulb and pump relay? WIRES!!!

Bottom line: you’ve got wiring problems. The sooner you get out of “parts swapping” mindset and into “test, measure and solder” mindset, the sooner you’ll get this working.



ok, more tests at ignitor connector (garbage in -> garbage out).
Disconnect ignitor and put aside in static-free safe place.
Key ON, stop-switch=RUN

1. Set meter to measure peak AC volts. Connect probes to wht/yel & yel terminals at ignitor connector. Crank engine for 5s. Peak VAC=???

2. Measure DC voltage at blk wire terminal, volts = ???

3. Measure resistance between grn wire terminal and chassis-earth, ohms = ???

4. At sidestand harness connector, measure resistance between grn wire terminal and chassis-earth, ohms = ???
Got spark, after printing the service manual and troubleshooting everything again i decided to replace the ICM thank you.
 
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  #34  
Old 03-11-2024, 09:31 PM
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You’re welcome and good job! Glad to hear you got it working!
 
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