Alright my friend so I educated myself on Ohm side of the meter 😂 so .482*1000K = 482 Ohms

 

Meaning that my pickup coil is good so now i have to search for another answer to this no spark situation. I dont suspect that dreaded pink wire im forcing 8.9V through it with the DC Converter and i know it arrived to the icm. But should i double check it and install the fuel pump and see if it primes?

 

Sure try and see if there’s pump prime.

Also verify safety-interloc status:

1. Disconnect ignitor, gear box in neutral, clutch squeezed OR kickstand up. Measure at ignitor connector

2. Measure resistance between grn/wht wire terminal and chassis earth, ohms=??

3. Measure resistance between grn/red wire terminal and chassis earth, ohms=??

If safety-interloc isn’t working, you’ll get fuel-pull prime and cranking, but no spark-trigger signal from ignitor. Trigger line between ignitor & coils should look like this on oscilloscope. Battery voltage most of time with short intervals of zero as ignitor earths line to trigger spark.

 

No prime from fuel pump, checked relay with tester blk/wht wire going into relay sending battery voltage when start stop switch is on = Faulty Relay

9vdc to icm is good since there would be a prime

1. Grn/wht 1.326 M Ohms

I found no grn/red wire going into the icm here it is pictured

 

Ok, grn/red only goes to starter-solenoid. That’s fine.

Pump relay only runs when engine is spinning. Or more correctly, it’s triggered by ignition pulses by ignitor. So no way to determine if fuel-pump relay is operational until you get sparks working.

grn/wht must be connected to earth by safety switches (0 ohms). Ignitor will not trigger coils until then.

 

i see, so the grn/wht wire has to be grounded and show no resistance for spark to return?

 

Re measured the resistance to that grn/wht wire from the ignitor connector with the clutch pressed in like last time and got back 6.59 M Ohms. I traced the wire and found it goes into the headlight/horn etc switch

 

Alrighty i see now where it is ACTUALLY going into the kickstand grn/wht supposed to be O/L if the stand is down i checked a ground where many green wires are going into and glanced over the one around the radiator fan they seem clean but i cleaned the one on the chassis as i saw a bit of corrosion nothing crazy just a small bit of green. I dont think the kickstand stops the ignitor from kicking spark however.

 

What happens when you stop with clutch squeezed and idling. Then you put kickstand down? Or what lots of people do to prevent wearing out kill-switch is to just put their kickstand down to stop engine.

Do you have wiring diagram? I’m not familiar with wiring of this model, but most have diode OR circuit so either neutral OR clutch OR sidestand would result in 0-ohms on that line. Diode prevents neutral light from flashing on clocks whenever you squeeze clutch.

 

No unfortunately i dont i tried seeing if the forum had the service manual but the link is dead. stand down clutch released O/L - stand up, Clutch released shows resistance so the kickstand is working as well 🤔 honestly im starting to suspect the ignitor ive met the conditions after installing the dc converter and the new harness for the pickup coil it shot one spark and then stopped. I had assumed a fuse blew but something definitely went out