Okay so I tested the DAI this morning and my novice background tells me it failed. First let me ask, when it says "with key on" does that mean key on and kill switch on or off or does it not matter? Either way it was a hit and miss and varied on both the inner and outer vent hoses, I could hear the solenoid clicking so it was functioning but almost as if it was in reverse most of the time than what the manual was saying it was supposed to be doing. I went over it 3 times just to be sure I was doing it right. Is there any way this could be a ecu fault or is this just the sign of a failing solenoid? Also since ive gotten to this point. Would this confirm the symptom of my stalls? Thanks

also to confirm because the diagram in the manual is a little hard to see the "No. 7 Inner hose" leads to the front of the bike and "No. 4 Outer hose" leads to the air box, correct? In my head I would think outer would lead to the "outside" of the bike but it seems to be pictured different.

 

Yes key on and kill switch at run, the number 7 hose comes from the airbox to the solenoid, the number 4 hose from the Evap container to the solenoid, follow directions on page 5-6 to test solenoid and relays

 

Ok, back to solenoid, it is working fine, things were backasswards because I was reading the manual as if I had a cali bike and I dont. I redid the test and the solenoid operated as it should. Do I still need to preform the test on pages 5-6? Thanks.

 

Did the solenoid make a sound when you turned the Ignition to on and Kill switch in run position, if yes you could still run through the other tests for relays, but if your bike is running they look OK, While your there you could try the Fuel Pump Discharge volume inspection page 5-37 , to make sure Fuel Pump is working correctly

 

Yes I could hear the solenoid click when turning the key on and off and it changed the direction of airflow as well so I think it is functioning properly. I have to borrow a wheel stand to do the other tests so ill have to wait on that. Is there anything else I can be looking at in the mean time while I have everything apart for my current issue (idle and low rpm cruise fine, WOT run, slowly bog out and die as if what I think its starving of fuel. Sit for 60 or so seconds try to turn it over with full choke bike still warm for a solid 10 seconds before finally starting). does it die from no air or no fuel? I dont know? How do you tell?

 

Yes the test for Fuel on page 5-37 should show the pump is working to the right capacity, if thats OK will have to look at the carbs, when were they last done?

 

I bought the bike last spring at an auction, it has a salvage title. the title only has 7k miles on it but its a salvage title so who knows what the true mileage is and what the actual history of the bike is but I only had to pay $500 and drove it off the lot. So im working from scratch. When I first got it last year It seemed to all run great for about a month and then I had to replace the stator and shortly after I ran into this problem. Its probably all a sign to stop riding... ^^

 

If its running but stumbling that can be fixed , and a good price too , just needs sorting out , if its stood for any length of time rust and dirt can settle , just take one step at a time , see if you getting the right amount of fuel through, if thats OK , we move on to the next, cause

 

Quick question before I sign off for the night, I will check the fuel flow in the AM. Does the pump run at a constant or does it vary? if I do this test at one voltage and it runs at several voltages maybe its failing at higher voltages when its trying to move more fuel? Something I just thought of. Okay, Thanks for all of your help!

 

With a good battery should get the proper measure, but only run it for the stated time , then multiply it to get the right amount, if thats OK we move on