Here in the UK we call the "Cluster" clocks

 

I got my new/used cluster from ebay yesterday with same results. Its pulling 5amps with key off. 2 different testers to be sure. The seller who sold it also doesnt accept returns and this might be why because he knew it was a bad cluster or the something else fishy is going on. It would be nice If I could get another 00` f4 owner to chime in and do a leak test to see if their cluster pulls anything with key off.

 

Ive been out for awhile but finally back, This thread is really dead man no on here but you... few updates. My WOT was cured by cleaning my main jets, they wernt bad but i guess bad enough to cause the bike to bog and stall at high RPM. Now my newer issue that ive recently found that sorta started to surface before last winter is my bike not wanting to start once hot. I always thought it was a charging issue after replacing battery. stator and R&R and after 15 min of running not being able to start the bike. Ive come to find out once the bike is hot with a clamp meter the starter is trying to draw upwards of 250+ amps and the battery cant handle it so the battery voltage drops from 12.8 to 9 volts. So I replaced the starter hoping it was a bad starter. New starter today and same issue. Bike hot about 50% on temp gauge and the starter tries to draw 250+ amps and the battery cant handle it. So this now brings me to believe maybe im having an oil delivery issue and something is seizing up? but if that were the case wouldnt it stay seized and not be fine to start after it cools in 15 minutes? I would like to do an oil pressure test but nothing in my set fits the port on the side of the bike. Any idea on where to find the adapter?

Side note, accidentally broke one of the nipples coming off the thermostat housing that leads to the carbs to warm them and keep the fuel from freezing.. I never ride when its cold enough for fuel to freeze and Jb weld was enough to adhere the nipple but not seal the leak. Can I just bypass this feature and plug it?

Thanks

 

Hi , have to go back to post #29 , you have to find out where that thinner Red wire from the starter solenoid is going, if a previous owner placed it in there to run an accessory and left the end open after taking his accessory off , it could be causing the drain and because its an extension (now) of the cluster wire it could be giving a false reading that the cluster is the guilty party

 

My problem I think is considered a "Hot start" problem. From "heat soak" I need to fix this new coolant leak I created then readdress the hot start problem. Do you see any problem with me by passing the coolant carb warming lines? and just plugging it off.

Like I said my starter is wanting to draw over 250 amps once its hot, I dont know if thats because the engine is hot or the starter but even putting a jump box on the bike isnt enough to crank it. again, brand new starter.

 

I would repair the broken part first then move on, or things have a tendency to snowball, I wouldn't bypass

 

Final update on my bike... got tired of putting my own time in the bike so had it towed to a shop. At this point I was more curious about what is wrong than anything. My hot start problem is permanent.. I have a spun rod bearing which really blows because I heard the rattling last fall and I had someone tell me it was probably my timing chain but I didnt believe them but wasnt smart enough to know about the noise of a spun bearing... sucks for me.. so the bike starts fine cold but once its hot the bearing swells up and binds up cylinder 3. putting to much strain on the starter. As for the stall out, it was fixed with a thorough carb cleaning, even though it appeared clean I guess there were micro clogs in the jets.. either way I am not putting $1500 in a $2k bike to replace the engine so on to my next bike I guess... I hope this thread helps out someone else with a hot start problem though. I know I have a lot of time searching what was causing the problem thats for sure.