Battery draining
#1
Battery draining
Did i search on this forum to get an idea on what my problem was. Common issue was recitiifer so i went out and got a new one. What i find strange is that the standing voltage and the idle voltage is about the same at 12.4. When i rev it up to 5k the voltage goes up to about 3.1-3.2. The old rectifier only gave me 12.7 at the same RPM so there an improvement but still doesn't the voltage sopose to be over 14? Any input of weather my reading are ok before i go out and get stranded again would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Thank you.
#3
i did the same as you got a rectifier and battery was still draining so i went and got stator tested and sure enough it was bad my advise have it tested before buying one but most likely stator needs to be replaced the usually start goin at 15k mines went to 18k so i really cant complain hope that helps bro
#4
Ok here is what the Honda service manual says:
First the batter voltage inspection
With vehicle off
Fully charged: 13.0-13.2V
Under charged: Below 12.3
With High beams on at 5,000Rpm
Measured battery voltage < Measured charging voltage< 15.5V
the above is how it reads in service manual, so if your battery is fully charged it should read no greater then 15.5V while its charging at 5000rmp and it should not read equal to or less then your battery's measured voltage with your engine off.
I had the same problem. My new battery's measured voltage was 12.9V (for the most part fully charged)
I took the reading while bike was on at 5000 RPM it read 14.5V .
So its on my bike its about 1.5V in addition the the measured battery voltage.
I did this with the old battery before i replaced the rectifier and the voltage was the same on or off. So my rectifer was not sending a trickle to my battery.
I noticed that while the bike is running the battery constantly supplies a steady current. The alternator spike charges the battery with 1 or 2 volts additionally all the time. It seems that the battery and charging system are always being used all the time. When the rectifer is dead and or the alternator, the battery runs by itself and it can for about 30 min to 1 hr draining it without replentishment. Its like a give and take deal :P But all take no give =dead battery.
Interesting thing in addtion is i was wondering of getting one of those japanese devices that smooths out power further and helps save fuel by supply constant power for your Fuel computer to prevent hic ups in power delivery. It also takes strain off of the battery from what it says. It acts like a buffer. I do not know much about it . MADE IN JAPAN BELLON FUEL SAVER GAS SAVER (SAVE 10~25%)http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MADE-...720161004r7491
First the batter voltage inspection
With vehicle off
Fully charged: 13.0-13.2V
Under charged: Below 12.3
With High beams on at 5,000Rpm
Measured battery voltage < Measured charging voltage< 15.5V
the above is how it reads in service manual, so if your battery is fully charged it should read no greater then 15.5V while its charging at 5000rmp and it should not read equal to or less then your battery's measured voltage with your engine off.
I had the same problem. My new battery's measured voltage was 12.9V (for the most part fully charged)
I took the reading while bike was on at 5000 RPM it read 14.5V .
So its on my bike its about 1.5V in addition the the measured battery voltage.
I did this with the old battery before i replaced the rectifier and the voltage was the same on or off. So my rectifer was not sending a trickle to my battery.
I noticed that while the bike is running the battery constantly supplies a steady current. The alternator spike charges the battery with 1 or 2 volts additionally all the time. It seems that the battery and charging system are always being used all the time. When the rectifer is dead and or the alternator, the battery runs by itself and it can for about 30 min to 1 hr draining it without replentishment. Its like a give and take deal :P But all take no give =dead battery.
Interesting thing in addtion is i was wondering of getting one of those japanese devices that smooths out power further and helps save fuel by supply constant power for your Fuel computer to prevent hic ups in power delivery. It also takes strain off of the battery from what it says. It acts like a buffer. I do not know much about it . MADE IN JAPAN BELLON FUEL SAVER GAS SAVER (SAVE 10~25%)http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MADE-...720161004r7491
Last edited by cbtrez; 07-30-2009 at 10:03 PM.
#5
Interesting thing in addtion is i was wondering of getting one of those japanese devices that smooths out power further and helps save fuel by supply constant power for your Fuel computer to prevent hic ups in power delivery. It also takes strain off of the battery from what it says. It acts like a buffer. I do not know much about it . MADE IN JAPAN BELLON FUEL SAVER GAS SAVER (SAVE 10~25%)http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MADE-IN-JAPAN-BELLON-FUEL-SAVER-GAS-SAVER-(SAVE-10~25%25)_W0QQitemZ360172569152QQcmdZViewItemQQims xZ20090720?IMSfp=TL090720161004r7491
#7
I Dont think my alternators doing its job, I replaced the rectifier.Bike still aint right. I took a voltmeter and measured the wires on the rectifier. And also all 3 of those yellow wires coming off the stator. All wires read Exactly what the battery measures. Witch is only like 12.6 with the bike on, and thats steadily droping.
#8
You may have to swap the alternator, and or recheck the Voltage Regulator rectifier. Im not sure if a alternator can burn out a V.R.R. . But you may want to check if your alternator is shorted across the yellow wires. and check the V.R.R. across where the yellow wires would go while it is disconnected.
So short across alternator =bad I think service manual says anything less then .1 Ohms across the yellow wires = short, im not sure have to confirm this.
Open across yellow wires on VRR while it is disconnected= bad, may be caused by bad alternator.
Good luck with the problem, i hope you find whats wrong.
So short across alternator =bad I think service manual says anything less then .1 Ohms across the yellow wires = short, im not sure have to confirm this.
Open across yellow wires on VRR while it is disconnected= bad, may be caused by bad alternator.
Good luck with the problem, i hope you find whats wrong.
#9
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