okay here it goes.... i did the folowing to test my stator cause i ws told these are the easiest ways to tell if its my stator... i did the test with the bike off and got zero ohms in all portals which i found wierd but then i turn the bike on for test 2 and they all gave me different readings one was 65 another was 67 and the last one was 70.. now when i tried just the battery terminals i got 12 and even when i reved the bike it stayed at 12 which i knew again there is a prblem cause it should be going up to atleast 13 -14.5 volts..im exhausted and all i want is for a way to do each item till i can find the source of the problem...another person told me it was my rr... i dont even know what that is..lol..can it be my rectifier or the regulator i have no idea and im lost and i called honda and the want 100 to diagnose and an arm an a leg for the part.. so some one please help... i need this told to me in a form of like a book for dummies...lol.. i didnt even know how to read a reader at first that how green i am at this so please some one give me the simplest way of getting to the bottom of this ty in advance.....any and all suggestions are welcome ....

 

Read up on these links, they give you a straight path to take to diagnose any
charging/electrical issues...

Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums

https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-9...-solved-27739/

Technical Resources - Resources for Electrical Systems on Motorcycles and ATVs - ElectroSport

Ern

 

thanks alot for the advice im hoping one of these things can help me... im not to good with a meter though...but im sure with alil bit of time and common sense ill be fine... but i will keep ppl updated.. only cause the rsults im getting say its not my staor but then other things say it is..lol.. well im about to dive in wish me luck.. thanks again matt..

 

ok... i did exactly what the chart told me to... with the bike off i disconnected the stator from r\r and tested the ohms and came up with .4 in all outputs... now from what the chart says its a bad stator.... its suppose to be .5-2.0 for a good read.... now the reason im stuck is cause before this i did the light test and with bike off turned the lights on and it went from high 12s to close to low 11s and then i turned the bike on and reved it a few times then let it idle and it went back to high 12s... hmmmm sounds like it was getting charge to me.... now keep in mind i did the test that when u turn the bike on it should go to 13-14.5 and mine wouldnt budge from high 12s.... this is where im at at this point some one please give info... ern uve been a huge help but this is where im stuck...

 

It sounds like your stator is ok. Have you checked to see if it's shorted to ground?
It's looking like your regulator/rectifier is no good.

BTW, what kind of bike is it?

 

its an 05 cbr 1000... its weird cause i was told to wirs a straight neg from r\r to see if that made a diff on the numbers... but with the reading on the ohms i was told it was the stator... im so lost lol....what exactly can i do to check if its one or the other cause every test i do is giving me a diff result... how can i for sure know if its one or the other..??? a simple test ...

 

now i also did the rectifier test where u put black line to positive battery lead and black line to the neg on the rectifier and if it read more than 0.2 than it was a bad neg meaning ground issue.... now the reading was 0.23 meaning it wasnt more than 0.2 so it than said it was my stator for sure is this story accurate..???

 

Getting 0.4 ohms is close enough to 0.5 to be acceptable. Make sure that none of them (the 3 wires) show any continuity to ground. If your battery is not getting charged, then it is most likely the Regulator/Rectifier. That is the device that takes the AC voltage from the Stator and converts it to DC to charge the battery. If you're not getting the 13 - 14.5 V across the battery when revving the engine to 3k to 5k RPM, then that's your problem.

IMO naturally.

 

hey idodirt, so ur saying with what ive explained its the r\r... now if thats the case how can i test the r\r for sure to see??? the easiest way possible.. cause the funny thing is i already have all the bolts off the stator and couldnt pry it from the glue or compound it has..lol...


how do i test those three wires to make sure theres no continuity to ground.. so i know for sure its the rectifier... i know it sounds dumb to ask but im very green to all this and i do appreciate everyone thats helping me....


i just did the complete diode test witht the rectifier and it passed with flying colors... now i did this diconnected from the bike... is it still possible i have a bad neg wire from rectifier to the battery and thats whats causing the problem... or is it the fact its my stator.... i know i can run a neg line direct of the rectifier to the battery and see if that makes a diff which in fact i will unless someone on here tells me its for sure the stator....i mean i finally got it down to only two things.....1 wiring(neg) or 2 the stator....

 

By the fact that you're not getting any charging to the battery.

With your meter on Ohms, put one lead (doesn't matter which) on one of the wires, and the other lead on the engine, or a bare screw that is attached to the frame. You should not read any continuity at all. If you do, then it should be replaced.

A Stator is just a coil of wire. 3 coils of wire to be exact. There is really not much to them to go wrong. All they do is sit there and some magnets spin near them. Unless your engine has suffered from an impact to the Stator cover, then I really doubt that anything is wrong with it. Usually it's a poor connection between the Stator and the Regulator/Rectifier that causes all the problems.

This is a photo from my F3. The 3 pins on the top of this connector are to the Stator and they're all yellow. As for the other 2, the Ground goes to the frame, and the Hot or Positive lead goes back to the battery by way of the main 30A fuse.