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I am new here and am a experienced DIYer. Just bought this 2000 CBR 600F4 that has been sitting for a few years that needs some slight tweaking.
This is my first carbureted vehicle I am working on ever. Newbie at carbs.
Little history to start. Currently have the carbs off the bike to do some cleaning. I have an eBay gasket and jet kit. Wondering if you guys suggest replacing any of the jets with the eBay stuff or use the original? Jets were pretty clean and not blocked for the most part, some debris underneath the slider diaphragms and float bowls slightly dirty. Spark plugs were changed as they were fouled. Bike will idle only with choke on, I can get it about halfway before dying. When revving by blipping the throttle, it can high rev, but stutters at the 2-3k rpm range and wants to bog out. does not currently ride, when coming from a stop it wants to bog out and wont ride. Bike currently has 44,000kms. Unsure of previous maintenance history by last owner had it for 10 years and bought it from original owner.
Now onto what I am asking. This is my first valve clearance check and doesn't seem to daunting of a job to also adjust it.
I have the crankshaft rotated and IN + EX lines are aligned with the top of the head and index notch is lined up with the ignition pulse generator rotor.
My question is on the second page it asks me to turn the tensioner shaft clockwise and hold it fully in the retracted position. I have a manual tensioner on mine and no longer have the junk auto tensioner. Do I have to back off the tensioner in order to check the valve clearances or do I leave it tightened up? Do I have to retighten it when turning the shaft to check other cylinder's exhaust and intake valves or can I leave it retracted? I tried to check the clearances on intake valves for cylinder 1 and could not fit my gauges into it from the top end. I could do it from the side for the LH intake valve but not the RH. I would like to do this job correctly and would appreciate constructive feedback on what I could be doing wrong and/or what else I could do while I have the bike torn apart.
I'll definitely use this as a general guide, thank you for the link.
From my understanding from this thread and of the manual, once I line up the IN and EX marks with the top of the head and the T mark on the rotor with the index notch on the cover, I am to retract the locking nut on my timing chain tensioner and release all tension on it?
Then from there I can follow the manual and turn the crankshaft as needed to measure all intake and exhaust valves clearances?
If you were going to attempt the adjusting, you will need access to some shims, you will not know until you measure and assess what the reading are.
In the main they get tighter with age, at 44k kms it is probably now due unless having being done previously.