From my experience the cooling system will accumulate some crud over time but I would agree that changing it with fresh coolant is a good idea. I can't say for sure what's causing the crud on your slow jet but it is essential that they are clean and being you already have the carbs off and it were me, I'd go ahead and disassemble all the carbs and clean them. Just do yourself a favor and be patient and thorough cleaning them making sure all the passages are clear. I did a quicky clean on the carbs on my kids CBR when we first got it only to have to take them off again and do it right the second time around. The idea that Ern mentioned about using canned-air that's normally used on computers if you don't have an actual air compressor is brilliant. I've always had an air compressor so I never thought of that idea.

 

Brilliant? Aww, gee shucks, wish I could claim credit. I've always wanted to be
brilliant. It's on my bucket-list. lol
I actually came across the suggestion on a forum, don't remember which, just
passing it on.

;-) Ern

 

I still have not got around to synching my carbs and adjusting my idle, I'm working on a scratch build muffler and it's taking some time, I'm hoping to get to it in the next few weeks.

 

Pretty much the same here, the carbs are synced but when putting on the new fairing stay and routing the wiring harness around it the other day I noticed it's missing a solenoid that mounts on the stay and is essential for the DAI system so I'm not messing with the pilot screws anymore till it comes in. In the meantime I'm reading up in the manual on how to check the DAI system itself so that when the solenoid comes in I can make sure the DAI is working like it should. Once I'm satisfied with that then I'll mess with the pilot screws.

 

Ok, this weekend, i could only work on my bike at sunday. I've decided to check valve clearences before tuning carbs. I'm glad i've decided that. Now as I measured I need to change 8 shims. I've just ordered a shim kit from ebay. After receiving them I will put them back and measure again. I think it's going to be hard to put sprockets of cam chain in right way. Does anyone have any trick about that?

And when I'm waiting for shim kit, Im going to clean my carbs again and check gaskets. After that I'm going to change coolant liquid and at the end tune my carbs. I hope so then I will be able to good to go

 

For any of you others who've had way too much free time and are actually following this post, here's another lesson you might want to take note of and it goes like this .... If you don't know what something is when you're putting something back together then put it back on anyhow because it's probably there for a reason. If it looks like something's missing then find out what is missing and if you still don't know exactly what it does, put it back on anyhow because like I said, it's there for a reason. In other words don't be some shade tree mechanic and look at something and say "nah, I don't need that" then take it off and leave it off unless you know what you're doing. I had been messing with the pilot screws on my kids CBR and up to this point haven't been impressed at all with it's throttle response so I took a break and focused on the bikes electrical wiring instead and it's a good thing I did. While routing the harness around the fairing stay I noticed a connection that had nothing to plug into so I whipped out the manual and tracked down the colors of the wires on the connection in the manuals wiring schematic to figure out what it was. It turned out to be an itty bitty solenoid for the DAI system, I still had no clue how it would effect the bike at idle but hey, Honda put it there for a reason so I ordered another one. Well it just came in today so I plugged it in and fired the bike up just to see if there would be any change and all I can tell you is that by simply plugging that solenoid in, this cbr runs like a completely different beast than before. I still want to go through it to make sure the DAI is functioning like it should but I definitely would've been beating my head against the wall messing with the pilot screws if I hadn't taken the time to make sure everything else other than just the carbs was doing what it should be doing.

 

Hello,

I've finished my valve setup today, it was going really good untill last bolt

I've tightened so much the bolt on link below (number 6), and its broken inside of cover. So i'm not sure what to do now. The bolt was broken in the middle hole that close to the seat.

Here is the link for bolt. Lowest price guarantee on parts / accessories for Honda Motorcycle, ATV, Watercraft, Scooter - OEM parts for less

So there are 5 more bolts holding the cylinder cover and broken was in the middle as im guessing its enough to hold them together without leaking oil inside. what do you think about that?

Otherwise i dont know how to take out broken part from the cover. You can see the photo of the broken part at the below link.

http://i44.tinypic.com/2mfxjsh.jpg

If you think its enough to hold cover with 5 bolts, I'm planning to put screw back to its place, then put some kind of sylicone or metal glue that's going to resist against heat of engine and leaking of oil. Can you suggest something for that?

I hate that kind of stuff, everyhing was going good, I've changed half of my shrims, measured all of valve clearence again, all of them was almost .16mm, then did my timing setup in 2 hours. And start to reassembly but on last bolt, just on last bolt, i screwed up so badly

 

Don't be kicking yourself in the butt just yet, the way those bolts are threaded makes them just itching for an excuse to snap at the point you show so provided it isn't cross threaded, you might just get lucky. Those threads never actually bottom out and now that the head of the bolt is gone, there shouldn't be any clamping pressure on the threads that are still in there and are now probably loose. Same thing happened on a valve cover bolt on my kids previous vf500 and right when I was ready to get an easy out, just for kicks I used a small tipped screw driver instead and the remaining threads spun right out with ease. I'm not saying yours will spin right out, I'm just saying it might so it might be worth the effort to remove the valve cover and give it a try. Good luck.

 

I've ordered the new bolts today, tomorrow or friday i will go and take out this ***** screw. I dont think its going to be hard, hope so

after finishing this i will start syncing my carbs then i just need to enjoy the florida weather

 

Ok I've tried to sync the carbs today but the problem is 3rd and 4th one is way too far. So when i started the bike, 3rd and 4th carb pulling too much, so i need to sync first 1st and 2nd with 3rd and 4th. But i dont know which way should i turn the screw? clockwise or counter-clockwise?

I dont wanna guess it, if i turn in wrong its gonna be so much bad. First i want to sync to each other closely at least.