Here's a picture of my set up, with a aquarium manifold/distributor for the
1-2-4 carb compare...


Ern

 

So as i see you dont need anything to connect the tubes to the carbs for #1,2 and 4. You can directly connect the tubes to the carbs.

 

For the F3, you also need the 5mm adapter for #1 cylinder.
Just switch on/off between the various 1-2-4 and back, as you sync them to #3.
The hose seperate from the rest of the cluster is for #3.

The harmonizer also does rpm off of vacume pulses (very accurate).
So you can go straight to pilot screw/idle adjust after setting the sync.

Ern

 

Motion Pro Vacuum Adapter Intake 5mm Neck 08-0218 Honda | eBay So that's the 5mm adaptor that I need?

 

That'll work. I got mine at the local honda shop, for $4.68, out the door,
tax and everything

Ern

 

First off there must be at least 100 ways of making a "DIY" manometer, which way you choose depends on how ambitious you feel because some can be some what complex and the one I made is probably the most basic. The good part is that as simple as it is it's dead accurate. Bad news is that it's cumbersome and is insanely sensitive, if any of the carbs are flowing just the slightest more or less, it's going to show it and when you think your getting close, you'll find yourself going back and forth and back and forth between carbs chasing each syncro screw trying to get all 4 tubes level with each other so be forewarned. The 1 pic shows how the T fittings hook up and as you can see it's pretty straight forward. The lines I've drawn on the board are just for visual reference. This is the part where you'll be wishing you bought the harmonizer instead and that's when you're ready to put the tranny fluid in the lines. I had my wife get me a basting syringe from the grocery store, filled the syringe with tranny fluid and shot it in, just be careful on how much fluid you put in. It doesn't matter which hose you chose to put the tranny fluid in because it will all eventually level out within all 4 tubes. The reason I chose tranny fluid is because it's highly visible in the tubing and also if by chance when you first set it up on your bike and 1 carb is a mile off and starts to suck the fluid into the carb, the bike might smoke a bit from burning the fluid but it wont hurt the motor but none the less be ready with the kill switch in case you see 1 line starting to suck the other lines dry. I'd be willing to bet you'll get air in the tubing when putting the tranny fluid in the tubing leaving a bunch of air bubbles in the fluid. You'll need to bleed those air bubbles out and all you have to is start sucking on the hoses 1 at a time. Yep I said suck on it, you don't have to suck it to the point you're spitting out tranny fluid, just suck on it and stop and keep repeating that until all the air escapes from the fluid. What you'll find is that when you suck on 1 of the hoses, the air bubbles in that hose will rise through the fluid to the point that the tubing is a solid red meaning all the air is bled. Remember, when sucking on it you're NOT trying to suck the tranny fluid out, your just sucking enough to where the fluid in that tube will rise, stop and take a breathe and let it settle down then suck again, doing this on each tube until all the air rises through the fluid in each hose. The 1/8" ID tubing is a bit on the small size for the adapters on the cbr but it goes on enough to work however if you run into a situation where the 1/8 ID tubing is just too small for the adapter on the intake, all you need is and adapter for the ends of the tubing. On my older cb750 and 550, there were no adapters on its intakes so I made my own using mig welding tips that I re-threaded to work but as you can see in the 2nd pic the 1/8 tubing is way too small to fit over it so I just put an adapter on the end of the tube with a short piece of larger tubing that would fit over the intake adapters I made. Sorry for the long post but do you get the idea?

 

Got my multimeter in today and I thinks its worth every penny, thanks for the recommendation.

 

Thank you very much JScottB it helped so much, i did my manometer, its ready for syncing now I got my adapter and my multimeter too.

yesterday i took out the carbs, i just wanted to see hows the inside of them. As you see on the picture, this leaked from the carb and there are some dirts at the gasoline. Do you have any idea why it is like that?

And another issue is as you see on the second picture, there are some white dirt on the slow jet of 3rd carb. I dont know what is that?

What do you suggest? Should take everything apart and clean them again? I did cleaning 1 month ago but i was riding bike but my carbs were unsynced and i havent done the tuning of d-shaped adjustment screw.

http://i40.tinypic.com/28vvgpf.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/2mfguf.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/a42cgl.jpg

 

Ok, as i figured out these dirty liquid is cooling water, they were coming from v-shaped connectors. Should I change radiator water or any other cooling liquid? Or its normal being dirty like that?

 

You want the jets to be all shiny clean. Drop them in some carb cleaner and let them
soak for about 10-15 min and then scrub them with an old tooth-brush. Do NOT use
any sort of wire to poke into the holes to clean them. You can alter the size and mess
them up. Use compressed air to blow them out, instead. If you don't have access to a
compressor, buy some of the canned-air at an office supply (sold for cleaning
computers). You might also need to replace the gaskets if you have coolant leaking
past the coolant channels into the carb body itself.

Ern