Hello,

I've cleaned my carbs last week, but i think they need to be tuned, its going good on high rpms but when i start to deceleration its starting popping. And its not working so regular on idle, i want it working like a clock

What should I do for that? As I read I need to buy a external tachometer thats going to be more accurate and tune the 3 screws between carbs refer to the service manual.

I have dynojet kit, so i've already setup the fuel screws 1/2 turn out.

Is there any other settings that I can do for tuning?

And can you suggest me a tachometer thats accurate 50rpms?

Thank you.

 

And another issue is when im going really slow on low rpms but its not going so smooth, i feel like its gonna stop but it keeps going.

 

I use a little device called, The Harmonizer. It's a electronic vacume gauage,
and it reads the rpm off the vacume pulses. It works with 2 and 4-stroke
engines. The guy that designed/markets it is suppossed to come out with
a 4 intake version. The one I have only compares 2, so I use a brass
aquarium manifold to switch between cylinders.

It works really well, it uses a left/right "bouncing ball" to illustrate the balance.
You just switch the different vacummes on/off to compare to your #2 cylinder.

After you sync the carbs, you set the idle speed. Tach comes in handy for that, too.

Hope this helps, Ern

 

I need to sync my carbs soon too, I don't mean to hi jack your thread but I have a few questions too. After I Sync my carbs then I adjust my idle. When I adjust my idle, does this set my air fuel mixture? If not how do I adjust my air/fuel ratio as I think I am running rich. What I am trying to ask is when I adjust my idle and balance the rpms does this mean I then have the correct air/fuel ratio? If not, how do I go about leaning out my fuel mixture or making it a little richer. Some detailed info on this would be great. I have already learned so much from these forums and I apologize for the long posts but I can't find the answer to this question that satisfies me. Also I know where to buy a manometer to sync the carbs, but where can I find the portable tach that I need for idle speed, I thought I read somewhere that you can use a multimeter that measures in ohms or something.

 

Syncing the carbs means all the carbs are balanced with each other and flowing the same but this doesn't effect air fuel ratio. Assuming your carbs are stock and have the factory jet "needles" then the only 2 things that effect a/f ratio is the size of the main jet and pilot screw adjustments. The pilot circuit of the carb dictates the a/f ratio at idle and at part throttle. Part throttle meaning putting around town or cruising at highway speed. The main jet plays a factor at highway speed but really doesn't fully come into play until you accelerate under load or at wide open throttle.

The tach I'm using is an Actron CP7677 tach/multimeter that I purchased form a local auto parts for around $60 tax included. You can get it a bit cheaper online if you're willing to wait.

 

I made a mistake with what I said about ohms, the correct setting would be hertz, I read that if you needed to you could use hertz which measure in revolutions per second, x it by 60 and you get your rpm, I cannot verify this and think its easier to just buy a tach, I need to also buy a manometer and then I will do a tear down and check to see if I have the stock main jet and stock jet needles. I downloaded the Honda Service Manual today and browsed through it, it's like a mini bible lol.

 

I am just about to buy the multimeter you recommended for $40 on amazon, to sync the carbs can I use this? http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7803-...=pd_sim_auto_4

Also what size hose do I need to attach to the nipples on the carbs, and carb one has a threaded hole in it that I need an adapter for right?

 

Hold up ordering the tach at the moment. I bought mine because it's what another member on this site uses from a post in another thread however I haven't figured out which coil to hook the neg lead to or if it matters which 1 I choose because I'm looking to see the rpm rather than set timing or if there is another wire I can splice into. I'm trying to avoid not hacking into the bikes wiring any more than I have to. I'll let you know how it works this weekend. The link to the gauge is a pressure gauge so it wont help on setting the pilot screws. I'm getting ready for work right now so I don't have much time but I'll post a pic of the manometer I use later this evening.

 

Too late lol. It looks like a good multi meter anyways so we can figure it out together. My boss just gave me a winters vacuum gauge that measures in Hg and kPa. It goes from 0 to -30 Hg I hope this will work, it is an air gauge, not water if that helps. Do you know the size of tubing ill need for the f3? And am I correct in saying that carb one needs a plug taken out and a fitting screwed in to measure the vacuum?

 

This does both tach and vacume sync....
Harmonizer Vacuum Multi-Tool -- It ain't your Daddy's Twinmax - ADVrider

It's the real deal and he shipped it very fast. Was on my doorstep in 4 days.

On the tubing, I think it's 1/8" ID. And the F3 uses a 5mm metric nipple for the#1 cylinder. It's $4, at the honda dealer.

Ern