Tachometer for tuning carbs
#31
When I try it again this weekend I'm going to stick with the procedure described in the manual using the tach/multimeter but I'm going to have a vacuum gauge hooked up on the carb I'm adjusting to see that if I notice a change in the vacuum reading, will I also see a change in the tach or visa versa. Yeah I'm not crazy either for spending $60 for a tool I may not have needed but it is a good multimeter and I've got 2 other bikes I can use it on.
#33
Ok, guys, there are several picture posts on carb syncing in the how-to's.
Ya'll sound like you're having a hard time with this. It's not hard if you follow
the correct procedure and use the right tools.
If you have re-built/cleaned your carbs, you set all of the mains to 1 1/2 to 2
turns out, after GENTLY seating them. Put them back on the bike. Be sure
that they are properly seated in the boots and that the clamps are tight to both the carbs and head. You don't want air leaks any where.
After mounting the carbs, COMPLETELY assemble all hoses, ducting and airbox.
If it isn't drawing air the way the bike will be driven, the results are meaningless.
The first tools you use next are a vacume guage and a long reach phillips screwdriver.
You use that to reach between the carbs to get to the adjusting screws. There won't be a screw for the base carberator, there will only be 3 adjusters.
If I remember correctly, the #2 is the carb that you sync to. The cylinders are numbered, left to right, 1-2-3-4. Hook up the guages to all of the cylinders. All of
the adjustment is to bring 1-2-4 to match 3. Be sure to snap the throttle as you are
making the adjustments to be sure it is stable.
If you have a F3, the #1 cylinder has a 5mmx10 screw instead of a vacume port.
Don't ask me why, I think Honda screwed the call on that one (imo). You'll have
to get one for $3.88 at your dealer, if the adapter doesn't come with your guages.
Once you have done that, THEN you adjust the main jets/idle. That is where you use
the tach and a long-shafted right-angle adjuster with the proper tip for your main jets.
Be sure the bike is at normal operating temperature when you do this part.
Look up pilot screw adjustment/ idle adjustment to get you throught the rest.
I hope this helps, Ern
Ya'll sound like you're having a hard time with this. It's not hard if you follow
the correct procedure and use the right tools.
If you have re-built/cleaned your carbs, you set all of the mains to 1 1/2 to 2
turns out, after GENTLY seating them. Put them back on the bike. Be sure
that they are properly seated in the boots and that the clamps are tight to both the carbs and head. You don't want air leaks any where.
After mounting the carbs, COMPLETELY assemble all hoses, ducting and airbox.
If it isn't drawing air the way the bike will be driven, the results are meaningless.
The first tools you use next are a vacume guage and a long reach phillips screwdriver.
You use that to reach between the carbs to get to the adjusting screws. There won't be a screw for the base carberator, there will only be 3 adjusters.
If I remember correctly, the #2 is the carb that you sync to. The cylinders are numbered, left to right, 1-2-3-4. Hook up the guages to all of the cylinders. All of
the adjustment is to bring 1-2-4 to match 3. Be sure to snap the throttle as you are
making the adjustments to be sure it is stable.
If you have a F3, the #1 cylinder has a 5mmx10 screw instead of a vacume port.
Don't ask me why, I think Honda screwed the call on that one (imo). You'll have
to get one for $3.88 at your dealer, if the adapter doesn't come with your guages.
Once you have done that, THEN you adjust the main jets/idle. That is where you use
the tach and a long-shafted right-angle adjuster with the proper tip for your main jets.
Be sure the bike is at normal operating temperature when you do this part.
Look up pilot screw adjustment/ idle adjustment to get you throught the rest.
I hope this helps, Ern
#34
No offense but you're not getting what I'm saying. At the moment no rpm response is happening when adjusting the pilot screws so the tach isn't serving it's purpose and I'm in the process of figuring out why. Now that I know how to hook the tach/multimeter correctly to get an accurate rpm reading I now will be able to set my idle speed correctly and maybe that's why it didn't respond the last time because I was simply guessing the idle rpm and I'll find out this weekend. I agree that using a vacuum gauge may be a waste of time but I still want one handy to maybe try the method my nephew described. He is a professional at this so I tend to listen and at least consider what he's saying because I'm open to all opinions.
#35
Don't us newbies drive you crazy? Thanks for the input.
#36
I think the point that Ern is making here is you have to have everything else done first, then the idle mixture adjustment is the last thing you do. Now, that being said, you really have to be patient when making these adjustments. 50 RPM is really hard to see. What I mean by that is your engine is going to be fluctuating up and down a bit just sitting there. The challenge is being able to see the increase or decrease in engine speed as an average of the fluctuations. Once you see it happening on the tachometer, you'll know what I mean. Good luck with your adjustments and let us know how it goes.
#37
What I mean by that is your engine is going to be fluctuating up and down a bit just sitting there. The challenge is being able to see the increase or decrease in engine speed as an average of the fluctuations. Once you see it happening on the tachometer, you'll know what I mean. Good luck with your adjustments and let us know how it goes.
#40
Ok now, today I'm going to start build my own manometer, but I'm confused.
Now I have these parts;
30' .170 clear tube, 2 T connector, 3'x1' wood and automatic transmission fluid. And I think I need an adapter. Is that good for that? Motion Pro Vacuum Adapter Intake 5mm Neck 08-0218 Honda | eBay
Do I need something else?
Now I have these parts;
30' .170 clear tube, 2 T connector, 3'x1' wood and automatic transmission fluid. And I think I need an adapter. Is that good for that? Motion Pro Vacuum Adapter Intake 5mm Neck 08-0218 Honda | eBay
Do I need something else?