>>>with no signal the solenoid is on slow - that is just an assumption and not necessarily true<<<

If the solenoid isn't switching the air flow from the small inlets to the larger inlets than it is stuck in "under 25mph mode" or whatever the triggering speed is. By bypassing the solnenoid - and rerouting the hoses - you are putting the system in high air flow all the time. So I think it's an accurate theory that the solenoid is failing in low air flow mode - if the engine stumbles at higher speed - since it's being starved for air. Suppose it could fail in the opposite mode - and likely do - but I doubt we would ever notice.

 

i see it in the manual...

mine's gone completely, but i was looking for the smaller intake hoses you mentioned... are they the tubes pictured? (i go to school for this crap, i should know that)

 

You can follow the small air inlet tubes up to where they connect in the front fairing. Once they split off the solenoid the branch up the frame and head over toward the airbox. Pretty simple system once you see what Honda did with it, just a little cluttered at first glance. But bypassing the solenoid is a good proven fix. Mine runs flawlessly now and others report the same thing.

 

that explains everything... i bought the bike after they hit a loading dock with it... upper fairing totally destroyed

 

Ok, to revive this once again... I have a 96, full micron exhaust, k+n(i know-i know, just too poor to go get a paper one)and about 24,000 mi. on the bike. Bought it from a kid who game me paperwork showing a carb servicing had been performed less than a month before i purchased it. I run mobil 1 synthetic, have fixed oil cooler issue, installed new correct # of teeth steel sprockets and Regina chain, and cleaned and rebuilt whole cooling system.

The bike runs awesome, pulls very hard at every throttle stage except just over idle. example: start from complete stop, shift into second and slowly bring RPM's up to about five grand, using just a little throttle to do so. Then if i keep the same throttle position, the bike starts to lightly "buck" back and forth (not as violently as it seems others have been). At any other speeds and gears, whenever I reach about 5K RPM, it does the same thing, so slow cruising speed up to highway speeds. In addition to this, the sputter/buck, seems to exist from about 5K to about 7K, all ways when its light throttle.

Now my Questions,
1st: Obviously, does this sound like the air solenoid acting up and not functioning correctly?
Before I read this whole thread thru, I was thinking that the carb service before I bought the bike may have been performed incorrectly or by a lazy tech who didn't sync my carbs as well as they could have.
(But on the other hand, when I give any more than light throttle, its stumbles over the 5K choke point and just opens up as smooth as any other powerful/performance engine i have ever felt.)
Runs up to redline and never misses a beat, never cuts out, it has no issue running as a performance bike. But trying to ride it civilized and in a slow relaxing manner, it just doesn't work so well.

2nd: Jesus after all that i'm not sure i have another question now. I am gearing up for the heat and going to rip the tank off and perform this by-pass. Just wanted any and all opinions on my issue and if it sounds anything like the air solenoid failing.

Thanks for reading my long post, just decided to give too much info rather than not enough.

 

First, bypass the air solenoid so that it is running in high speed mode all the time and see what happens. That is both vents feed air. Most of us can't tell the difference at low speed anyway. Seems a pointless thing.

Second, if you running a K&N + free flow pipe try a stage 1 jet kit "IF" it hasn't been fitted already - I noticed much improved throttle response.

Other than that check the carbs are set correctly regardless of service - things can change suddenly - all jets clean and clear especially pilot. All the airways clear. Check silly things like you haven't lost a vacuum take off screw or one of the carb boots is not tight etc.

 

Ian is right - the bypass should be first on the list based on your reported symptoms. It's an easy process that should take no longer than a half hour - if that.

 

Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,618


generally if you jetted the bike, you should ground the solenoid so its always open.
__________________
2007 CBR600RR
-1/+2 520 kit
Yoshimura RS-5, DynoJet PCV
Gutted DAI \ K&N Filter \ PAIR Blockoff
Powdercoated Rearsets & Heat Shield
Homebrew Device Charging USB Port
Tripage Red Gauge Cluster
Tripage "Knight Rider" Third Eye
StreetGlow Body LED kit
Homebrew Fender Eliminator
Clear Alternatives Integrated Taillight
TapeWorks Reflective Rimstriping


2nd Place for August 2009 ROTM:
'96 CBR600 F3


I know this thread is long dead, but the question was never answered?

I have bypassed and removed the solenoid and plumbing attached to it after after installing a Dynojet kit and fine tuning it.

The connection on the loom is obviously disconnected, should I run a ground from the frame to this un-connected connection ( after finding out which is the negative wire in the connection)

Any input would be great,
Ride safe,
Ant.

 

Guys and gals, I just did this minor surgery to my bike (coupled with a balance and a pilot screw adjustment) and now it runs like a top.

I tested my solenoid and it wasn't working when you'd put 12 volts on it.

Now it's gone, per Kuroshio's procedure, and the bike is running much more sweetly.