Clutch cable
Loosen the cable locking nut, and turn the clutch cable adjustment counter-clockwise.
BUT...
Sounds like you've already done that and you're running out of room. Maybe it's time for a new clutch? Mine is adjusted about as far as I want to take it. I'm going to be replacing the clutch this winter anyway, so it's just as well.
Make sure you don't bring out the clutch adjustment too far or you'll risk stripping the threads and possibly requiring new parts (lever/cable, etc.).
BUT...
Sounds like you've already done that and you're running out of room. Maybe it's time for a new clutch? Mine is adjusted about as far as I want to take it. I'm going to be replacing the clutch this winter anyway, so it's just as well.
Make sure you don't bring out the clutch adjustment too far or you'll risk stripping the threads and possibly requiring new parts (lever/cable, etc.).
It would be better to adjust it at the engine where the clutch cable is mounted to the clutch cover. First adjust the cable at the handlebar until there is about 10 mm of thread showing and tighten the locking ring. Then look down toward the clutch cover. There are two nuts on the cable around a mount. Loosen the nut toward the back of the engine and tighten the other nut until you have approx. 5 mm of freeplay at the clutch lever. The lever adjustment is just for small incremental adjustments and the engine mounted adjustment is for larger adjustments. Clutch cables can also stretch over time and as Kid says, your clutch plates also wear out.
Clutch may not be worn, it may be as Zero says. I didn't know about that adjustment point - I'm still learning about bikes! Cars are another thing 
Give Zero's idea a shot and let us know what you find out.

Give Zero's idea a shot and let us know what you find out.
Ok so i tried adjusting the cable at the motor and it worked great I had alot of slack! Only problem is that there is no locking nut for the cable, who ever took that appart last did not put it, thats why it lost so much slack....Im gona have to find a nut that works there [:@]
THanks for the help guys!
THanks for the help guys!
So I was tinkering on the bike and i noticed that my clutch lever has a lot of freeplay. So I adjust the clutch cable at the motor. Thing is, I can't get much more out of it. If I engage the clutch all the way, it only starts grabbing when it's almost fully released instead of grabbing when I begin to release the lever.
I'm wondering if the clutch plates are worn or if I need that kevlar friction plate kit that's like $50. I know when I change clutches in cars, it's like night and day - before you change it the pedal is about 2 inches from being fully extended before grabbing - after you replace it you only have to release the clutch pedal about an inch before it's grabby.
However, I'm not aware of cars having that "kit" for them as they do for the bikes, so I'm not sure if I am needing to replace the clutch entirely or just that kit.
What would you guess from what I have said? That bike has 24K miles on it - I'm leaning towards the entire Barnett Kevlar Clutch kit, but I would like some opinions before I drop the $160 on it. Thanks.
I'm wondering if the clutch plates are worn or if I need that kevlar friction plate kit that's like $50. I know when I change clutches in cars, it's like night and day - before you change it the pedal is about 2 inches from being fully extended before grabbing - after you replace it you only have to release the clutch pedal about an inch before it's grabby.
However, I'm not aware of cars having that "kit" for them as they do for the bikes, so I'm not sure if I am needing to replace the clutch entirely or just that kit.
What would you guess from what I have said? That bike has 24K miles on it - I'm leaning towards the entire Barnett Kevlar Clutch kit, but I would like some opinions before I drop the $160 on it. Thanks.
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Zandaloo
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Aug 22, 2013 03:26 PM




