Honestly, Steven, unless you know that someone monkey'd around with the individual butterfly settings, synchronizing the carburetors rarely yields any difference, as there's rarely any real adjustments to be made - I would not be concerned with the engine's temperature when you made the adjustments.

 

Well that's what I was thinking . It did sound a little lumpy and I was advised to synchronise them since I had split and cleaned the carbs, but as I said they were near enough perfect. What a waste of £65, ha! I might just resell them on eBay.

Thanks for the reply

 

Today I managed to fit new seals to the rear calliper, new fluid and finish bleeding on both sets of brakes (I really do hate it, ha). I lubricated my clutch cable using a new cable lubricator (aerosol style) and painted the clutch and stater covers. Ideally I would have spent more time preping them etc before painting but I just want it finished now!





I then wanted to lubricate the throttle cable but got stuck here



How do I loosen the cables in order to free them from the housing? I'm not taking them back off at the carbs again if that's what's needed

And how it sits just now:



It's basically road ready now Got my insurance documents through this morning, just needs MoT and tax now.

There are still a few jobs I need to do including radiator flush and oil + filter change but they can be done whenever.

 

the adjusters going into the throttle housing might give you enough slack in the cable to pop the cables out of the white holder.

While you're in there, you might as well do the r6 1/4-turn throttle tube upgrade, pretty cheap part, if I recall correctly.

 

Thanks, do you mean adjusters here:



I've never actually heard of the R6 1/4 turn upgrade, could you enlighten me?

 

Yes, those are the ones, but after toying with them, to see how much slack you can get, you may find it's not enough to work the cable ends out of the channels on the throttle tube, at that point, your only option would be to loosen them at the carbs.

As you rotate the throttle, the size of the "cam", or whatever you want to call it, that the cable rides directly on, is what determines how much you have to rotate, to go from closed throttle to wide-open. Some guys have employed certain years of the R6 throttle tube, which has a larger circumference of the aformentioned "cam", which simply means the throttle does not have to be rotated as far to achieve full throttle, hence the term "quick-throttle"... it's much easier on the wrist.

I'm not certain of which year range of R6, is the preferred tube to use, as I create my own quick-throttle tube, by modifying the existing tube, but I know that you have to do some slight modification to the R6 tube, in order for it to work, it seems though, that it's something quite simple.

 

Thank you, I'll look into it.

This arrived today after a few weeks of waiting





The "bubble" isn't that big at a,l, but hopefully it's enough to be effective.

 

In reference to disconnecting the throttle cables- My bike has new cables and almost zero play before the adjusters are tightened. I realized that if you remove the clip on, you can then slide it out of the throttle tube which then enables you to safely remove the cables.

Hope this works for everyone because this design sucks haha.

 

Hi folks!

So I thought I would post a little update! The bike was MOT'd in March 2013 and passed... I then used the bike a handful of times and it has sat in the garage since I've told myself I'm going to use it more this year and start enjoying it. I haven't used it in 8 months+ (maybe more)

I purchased new aftermarket grips which look identical to the OEM grips, these were bought to replace the red grips which are currently fitted. I also bought some OEM bar end weights which should hopefully reduce some of the handlebar vibration.



Plans to get the bike ready are

• MOT!
• Service forks
• Sort rear brake
• Replace rear indicators
• Clean the carbs?
• Possibly remove and replace broken exhaust studs
• Source main fuse cover (been looking for years)

As the bike has been sitting for a long time, would it be wise to take the carbs off again and clean/drain them? I did that last year before I put the bike on the road and although it was a pain in the rear end to do, I don't want any dirt clogging up the system. Thought to be fair, the last time I did it they were absolutely spotless.

When I fitted the downpipes more than 5 years ago, a few of the studs snapped off. I replaced the rest of them with new studs but there are still 2-3 studs which are broken and not secured onto the engine. I've always left them because it doesn't appear to leak any air, but I might replace them just to tidy everything up.

 

What's this?!? Update?!? StevenF?!!?
Just who IS this "StevenF"?!?

Haha! Just messin' with you man, good to see a new post about this one!

On the carbs/fuel issue, it really just "depends" - by any chance, did you put any fuel stabilizer in the tank, before it sat, and run the bike long enough to get into the bowls/jets?
Fuel stabilizer is not magic, but it can help to slow the breakdown of today's crappy gas... the carbon deposits that result from this breakdown, is usually what ails carbs.

Bottom line, if it seems to run fine at idle, AND when you're romping it, then you might not need to lift a finger.