Without a doubt, if you're not comfortable working with the carbs, then you might have to utilize someone you trust, to do this. But, honestly, it's really not that hard, if your careful with noting where everything was, by recording the amount of "turns-out" the pilot screws are, properly labeling the various hoses and cables, and working on a table, where you can lay out the jet components in an easy to sort fashion, so that after you clean everything, you can get it back together correctly... pictures could help with that too.

Also, with regards to the pilot screws, if you're running an OEM or OEM-type paper air filter, and have stock exhaust, then the pilot screw positions wouldn't necessrarily need to be recorded, as you could just set them at the OEM spec when you're finished... for all you know the screw for each of the four carbs may be set incorrectly, and/or inconsistently from carb to carb.

At any rate, with non-stabilized fuel sitting for that long in the carb bowls, fueling circuits, and even at the petcock screen, it is highly probable that things won't run as good as they could, without giving these items the old "once over".

 

Great looking bike Steven. It's great to get under the plastics and really learn what's going on with your bike. Looks like yours is in pretty good condition and just needs a bit of tlc and a clean.

Is the engine running nice and smooth? Any flat spots with the throttle? If everything is fine then you might want to leave the carbs alone. Having said that, it's not that difficult to do the basic overhaul if you feel like making sure they are clean. Definitely easier with a manual to follow, like a Haynes, as mentioned.

A couple of times I have rented a car in Inverness and driven across to Lochcarron on the West coast. Some lovely roads up there and the traffic is pretty light. You just have to watch out though because some of those roads turn into single lane tracks before you know it!

 

I'll have a think about tackling the carbs, i'm still unsure. I have OEM filter but I have stainless steel downpipes fitted and an aftermarket exhaust. I haven't touched the pilot screw at all.

Thanks. Optimus. Pretty much, there is a slight bit of surface rust on the frame but its nothing to worry about, I may sand and paint the rusted areas.

The last time I ran the bike was 12months ago - maybe slightly more - and as far as I can remember it ran fine. I have a Haynes and Service manual which I could use to help me with the carbs if I decided to go that far.

Yea? Your right! There are some beautiful roads up there but unfortunately they aren't all well maintained. They are fine for a car, but winter just brings roads full of potholes.

 

I managed to get a little more work done on the bike tonight. I fitted new seals to the front clipers, re-greased them fitted them on with my new braided lines. I also picked up my valve cover bolt from honda, refitted that - without snapping any bolts! - then cleaned and re-installed the spark plugs.

I also received a rear caliper which I bought on eBay but the piston is well and truely stuck. I'll have a go at removing it on Friday/Saturday.

 

Looking forward to next month in order to purchase some new items for the bike. Plans are

New leavers (possibly shortened style) - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2209864299...84.m1423.l2649

Black grips, possibly these: Adjustable CNC Clutch Brake Levers For BMW K1200S 04-08 | eBay

And a double bubble screen as well as a far maintenance items. I'm not entirely sure which colour of screen would suit best, I was thinking clear or lightly smoked.

 

(Hear the chorus now to Kool & The Gang's Celebration !!)


...sorry Steven, just giving you grief!! You KNOW that it HAD to be done!!

I wouldn't use these on my race bike, but, the truth is, one of these essentially "brandless", super-cheap CNC lever sets are going on my streetbike too... considering the OEM levers are basically "pot metal", I'm sure these will do the job just fine.
I would leave the OEM levers, but I'm already sooo used to my CRG's, that I don't want to give up that adjustability while riding, and I want to keep as much consistency as possible from bike to bike.
My maiden voyage on the new streetbike was last night, just after 11:30pm, and I rode to work this morning, and there is a lot of difference in the "feel" of the new bike, compared to the other one, which makes since, since it's got different levers, different rearsets, different gearing, different tires, stock brakes vs. highly modified, and is about 30 pounds heavier to boot!

By the way, you mentioned some grips, but the link after that was another link to some CNC levers... you probably didn't notice when you posted.

I'm giving in and getting a cheap Hong Kong double-bubble for the race bike, as the Zero Gravity screen is too low profile for the track, even lower than OEM. What I've noticed with those Hong Kong screens, is that if the screen is smoked, it's VERY dark smoked! Obviously, I want clear for the track, and I think clear would look the best on your bike, in MY opinion, but honestly, a light smoke would look good too.

The reason I'm going with a Hong Kong screen, is because though there used to be multiple racing brands, with offerings for the F2, I have had no luck finding anything... I did find this site, they are German, and I'm betting the product is higher quality than what I'm currently considering, and, they have 4 different aerodynamic styles, in addition to 4 different finishes, to choose from. But, they are pricey, and the cost is prohibitive for me at this point - $106 USD / £ 69 - that is before shipping costs.

https://www.mrashop.de/erp/catalog/n...N_KEY.offset=0

 

I can understand that, they're aren't going to match the move expensive brands in terms or quality, but I have heard form other users that the quality is great for the pice and more than suitable for road use.

Whoops, I meant these: http://bit.ly/YaUu8Z I'm just looking for something which looks close to OEM

That's exactly what I've found with the Hong Kong screens, they're all pretty much blacked out 100% tint. I don't like the look of them and they wouldn't suit my bike. I also imagine for track days you would want to see clearly through the screen, so they're not ideal.

I'm currently watching a clear double bubble on eBay at the moment. It's £18 delivered from Hong Kong which is a bargin. The more expensive one - probably better quality - tend to retail for around £60-70. Anyway, they have 4 available so if you are interested, I can send you the link.

 

If you have plans to do track days, then you most definitely should go with clear - since you're wanting grips that have more of an OEM look, you would probably prefer the way your bike will look with the clear screen anyway.

No worries... I did a bunch of searching yesterday, and found probably 4 or 5 different Hong Kong merchants with clear double-bubbles, for really cheap - I probably looked at all the same ones that you did!

 

I think I might tackle the carbs once I've got all the minor jobs out of the way. To he honest, the only thing that is worrying me is removing and installing the throttle cable from the carbs. How difficult actually is it to remove and re-install?

 

You've just gotta make sure you look over the way the cables and their built-on adjusters are positioned so you can restore it to the way it was. you could use a little piece of tape to mark which cable is on top (throttle pull) and bottom (throttle return), but honestly, with the cables off the carbs, if you just move the throttle tube around, and see which cable "pulls-in" to it's casing when you do this, it will be pretty obvious which goes where on the carb. Also, other than the way they connect just at the carbs, you want to note how the cables are routed up to that point, so that when you go back together, you don't end up with one of them binding.

You'll slacken the cables by using 10mm open-end wrenches (having two is helpful), at the carb side, and then use your fingers to manually open the butteflies using the assembly containing the return spring, so that you can manipulate the actual cable and work the cable end out of it's channel, then get the other one out - I usually loosen all the motor-side clamps on the boots, and actually get the carbs free from the motor before I disconnect the cables.

Truth is, the most frustrating parts of removing/re-installing the carbs, is getting them free from the motor, and then getting the cable ends back in their channels... it's NOT hard as far as understanding, it's just one of those things that can make you do some cussing until you get it!!

Once you get the cables back in their respective channels, and restore the metal bosses at the end of the cables casing, to their respective clamps, you just get the adjuster nuts tightened to where the cables are going to stay put, AND when you twist the throttle, you get wide-open throttle, and full return, before actually remounting the carbs to the motor.

Most of this won't make too much sense, until you see it!