New F2 Project
#11
I just went through a major overhaul of the carbs and fuel system on my 94 F2 so here's what I can tell you. Your fuel hoses are probably hard as rocks so replace them. The fuel line that runs from the petcock to the T connector is supposed to be S shaped. Your pic shows a generic fuel hose with hose clamps that don't look OEM for sure. Here are the OEM part numbers for the S shaped hose, 16955-MV9-000, and the L shaped hoses (you need QTY-2), 16195-MV9-670, that run to the carb inlets.
I wasn't about to spent 28 dollars per carb on gasket kits so after I cleaned them I used RTV silicon for the bowls. I have had ZERO problems with leaks. For the carb boots I sprayed a bit of lithium grease inside them so they would go on and off easier.
Lastly, the bought a rebuild kit for the vacuum petcock and a new strainer screen because mine was toast after the previous owner let the fuel turn to varnish. I got the tank clean with naval jelly. That stuff rocks!
I wasn't about to spent 28 dollars per carb on gasket kits so after I cleaned them I used RTV silicon for the bowls. I have had ZERO problems with leaks. For the carb boots I sprayed a bit of lithium grease inside them so they would go on and off easier.
Lastly, the bought a rebuild kit for the vacuum petcock and a new strainer screen because mine was toast after the previous owner let the fuel turn to varnish. I got the tank clean with naval jelly. That stuff rocks!
#12
If I were a betting man, since you only found the bent valves on one cylinder - the motor wasn't running under load when the damage occurred.
I'd bet a timing job wasn't done properly, and the motor wasn't turned through enough to find the interference issues, and someone tried starting it up and ate those valves. Otherwise, since our engines are interference-type, wouldn't you have found even more damage if the motor had been running down the road when the problem happened?
I'd bet a timing job wasn't done properly, and the motor wasn't turned through enough to find the interference issues, and someone tried starting it up and ate those valves. Otherwise, since our engines are interference-type, wouldn't you have found even more damage if the motor had been running down the road when the problem happened?
It's hard to tell from that pic, but if the cylinder 2 piston face is undamaged, and the rod is not bent, just replacing the two valves and putting it back together might not be too pricey... how are the valve seats?
I would also check those corresponding valve guides for wear/damage, even if they are bad, they're only $11 each... though pressing out the old and pressing in the new, might cost a few bucks.
Anyway, nobody would blame you for parting this thing out, and looking for a better specimen, but if you decide to tackle it, good luck!
I would also check those corresponding valve guides for wear/damage, even if they are bad, they're only $11 each... though pressing out the old and pressing in the new, might cost a few bucks.
Anyway, nobody would blame you for parting this thing out, and looking for a better specimen, but if you decide to tackle it, good luck!
I just went through a major overhaul of the carbs and fuel system on my 94 F2 so here's what I can tell you. Your fuel hoses are probably hard as rocks so replace them. The fuel line that runs from the petcock to the T connector is supposed to be S shaped. Your pic shows a generic fuel hose with hose clamps that don't look OEM for sure. Here are the OEM part numbers for the S shaped hose, 16955-MV9-000, and the L shaped hoses (you need QTY-2), 16195-MV9-670, that run to the carb inlets.
I wasn't about to spent 28 dollars per carb on gasket kits so after I cleaned them I used RTV silicon for the bowls. I have had ZERO problems with leaks. For the carb boots I sprayed a bit of lithium grease inside them so they would go on and off easier.
Lastly, the bought a rebuild kit for the vacuum petcock and a new strainer screen because mine was toast after the previous owner let the fuel turn to varnish. I got the tank clean with naval jelly. That stuff rocks!
I wasn't about to spent 28 dollars per carb on gasket kits so after I cleaned them I used RTV silicon for the bowls. I have had ZERO problems with leaks. For the carb boots I sprayed a bit of lithium grease inside them so they would go on and off easier.
Lastly, the bought a rebuild kit for the vacuum petcock and a new strainer screen because mine was toast after the previous owner let the fuel turn to varnish. I got the tank clean with naval jelly. That stuff rocks!
#13
I'm curious about that picture of your piston heads. Anyone with more experience know what the circles on the cylinder heads are? Is that where the valves are contacting the surface of the piston? There's light circles on the intakes of piston two where the bent valves came from but there are more defined circles on the exhaust side of all the pistons. Does that look like there's lots of contact on the exhaust side?
If the timing chain is off then would you only get contact with a couple of valves or all of them?
If the timing chain is off then would you only get contact with a couple of valves or all of them?
#14
I'm curious about that picture of your piston heads. Anyone with more experience know what the circles on the cylinder heads are? Is that where the valves are contacting the surface of the piston? There's light circles on the intakes of piston two where the bent valves came from but there are more defined circles on the exhaust side of all the pistons. Does that look like there's lots of contact on the exhaust side?
If the timing chain is off then would you only get contact with a couple of valves or all of them?
If the timing chain is off then would you only get contact with a couple of valves or all of them?
Like JNS said, if the pistons arent scarred, some new valves, and possibly seats should get you going.
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