Changing fork springs
#1
Changing fork springs
I've used the search function but can't seem to find this specific question answered anywhere. I'm putting '94 forks on my '91 and am ready to change out the springs. But the fork cap doesn't seem to just come off like it does on the stock forks. So how do I make the swap? The OEM service manual I have shows both types, but doesn't say anything to the point. It does seem to show that the caps should separate somehow from the internal assembly, but I can't figure out how to get them apart, or even if that's necessary. Am I just missing something that'll make me feel really stupid?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
#2
You can just call me the forkmaster... I've had quite a good time with mine recently...
keep forks clamped up in the tree first.
break the cap loose on top with a big wrench. don't round it off. It's aluminum, and that would look crappy.
remove forks from the trees if you want, but just for a spring swap you don't need to. but... it would be good to change the oil and the fork seals....
unscrew the fork cap all the way, with the BIKE SUPPORTED! if you just take the caps off, of course the bike will drop, likely killing innocent children or a small puppy. As you unscrew the caps, push down so they don't explode into your eye. Doing so also makes the unscrewing easier.
Take the spring clip washers off (the ones with the slit halfway through them. They're cup shaped.)
Everything should stick up a bit out of the tubes when you've removed the fork caps. Now, unscrew the outer aluminum cap housing from the inside aluminum rebound adjuster body. DON'T break the whole thing free off the damper rod, because then you'll have to reset your rebound screw adjustment range and that is unnecessary suckyness for a spring swap. Hold on to the damper rod and don't let it escape down into the fork. It will do so slowly, so it's not a huge deal.
Take the thin washers off the tops of the springs, and pull the springs out of the upper fork tubes, over the damper rod and aluminum rebound adjuster body. They will be oily.
Insert new springs, tight coils down. Reassembly is in reverse of disassembly.
oil qty. is just shy of 16 oz. per leg after a complete drain of the 94 forks.
keep forks clamped up in the tree first.
break the cap loose on top with a big wrench. don't round it off. It's aluminum, and that would look crappy.
remove forks from the trees if you want, but just for a spring swap you don't need to. but... it would be good to change the oil and the fork seals....
unscrew the fork cap all the way, with the BIKE SUPPORTED! if you just take the caps off, of course the bike will drop, likely killing innocent children or a small puppy. As you unscrew the caps, push down so they don't explode into your eye. Doing so also makes the unscrewing easier.
Take the spring clip washers off (the ones with the slit halfway through them. They're cup shaped.)
Everything should stick up a bit out of the tubes when you've removed the fork caps. Now, unscrew the outer aluminum cap housing from the inside aluminum rebound adjuster body. DON'T break the whole thing free off the damper rod, because then you'll have to reset your rebound screw adjustment range and that is unnecessary suckyness for a spring swap. Hold on to the damper rod and don't let it escape down into the fork. It will do so slowly, so it's not a huge deal.
Take the thin washers off the tops of the springs, and pull the springs out of the upper fork tubes, over the damper rod and aluminum rebound adjuster body. They will be oily.
Insert new springs, tight coils down. Reassembly is in reverse of disassembly.
oil qty. is just shy of 16 oz. per leg after a complete drain of the 94 forks.
Last edited by JimmyHoffa; 02-10-2010 at 11:28 PM.
#3
Thanks for the reply, Forkmaster. I've swapped springs out of the old forks before. Just got the '94 forks for the cartridge upgrade and to use 1kg/mm springs. So I've had my bike up on my triple tree stand to take all pressure off the wheel. Bought a socket just for the fork caps (24mm, I think). I'll have to go look for the spring clip washers. Didn't notice those before.
BTW, is it true you're buried under Giants Stadium?
BTW, is it true you're buried under Giants Stadium?
#4
You don't happen to know the spring rate in kg per mm on the stockers, do you? I'm just curious.
Also, that spring clip isn't something you'd miss if it's there. It sits on the top of the spring, and braces against the bottom of the nut that secures the damper rod to the fork cap. Thataway, when you twist the rebound adjuster body inside the fork cap, preload is able to be adjusted.
this is what they think went down...
http://www.uncharted.ca/images/stori...hoffex0616.pdf
Also, that spring clip isn't something you'd miss if it's there. It sits on the top of the spring, and braces against the bottom of the nut that secures the damper rod to the fork cap. Thataway, when you twist the rebound adjuster body inside the fork cap, preload is able to be adjusted.
this is what they think went down...
http://www.uncharted.ca/images/stori...hoffex0616.pdf
#5
As far as I can find out for sure, the stock rate is .648 kg/mm for the 91-93 years and .720 for '94. Pretty soft for the track at my weight.
Yeah, you'd think clips, etc. would be pretty obvious. Haven't had time to get out to the garage recently except to get at snow moving stuff. Sigh. But the cartridge internals aren't very familiar as I've only ever delved into older damping rod forks. I'll be out there tonight taking a gander after I throw some farkle on my Triumph.
Thanks for the advice and the link. I hope your end wasn't too painful.
Yeah, you'd think clips, etc. would be pretty obvious. Haven't had time to get out to the garage recently except to get at snow moving stuff. Sigh. But the cartridge internals aren't very familiar as I've only ever delved into older damping rod forks. I'll be out there tonight taking a gander after I throw some farkle on my Triumph.
Thanks for the advice and the link. I hope your end wasn't too painful.
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