Anyone have dimensions for a manual CCt
must have refined their programs on the machines. you guys remarked about the sloppy work and the slots instead of proper holes for mounting. got mine in lastnight and it is a very well machined part IMO. clean lines and no slots for mounting. im happy with it for now, see what happens when i go to install it tommorrow.
I made my own cct works perfect, but i know it doesnt look so nice take alook at my tread https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-93/engine-noise-fixed-cct-rad-104448/
there are pictures ,at the end of the bolt i just make it round tip whith a stone to sharp knives.
but guys i made my own because is impossible for me to go to the store and buy one ape cct because in my country we hardly have autozone, if i where you up there in the states y will buy the ape cct .
there are pictures ,at the end of the bolt i just make it round tip whith a stone to sharp knives.
but guys i made my own because is impossible for me to go to the store and buy one ape cct because in my country we hardly have autozone, if i where you up there in the states y will buy the ape cct .
Berga, this is a very interesting project.
I'm currently rebuilding my engine and have thought long and har dabout going the manual tensioner route but have opted for the standard auto tensioner in the end as I have not had a problem with it so far.
I'm confused about two things here. Firstly, what is this talk about the end of the bolt touching the chain? The standard tensioner puts pressure on the chain by pulling on the chain guide. If your tensioner is going to apply tension by a different means then what are you going to do about the rear chain guide which is normally fixed to the standard tensioner?
Secondly, why make it out of Aly? For the size of the component weight can not really be a massive issue. Strength would be a higher priority to my mind. Looking at your mastercam outline it seems that the dimensions of the final component should be man enough but if you made it from steel you could actually slim it down a fair bit. The mounting plates on a standard tensioner are not more than 2mm thick.
Please don't think I'm being at all negative here. I applaud your project. It's just that it may pay to think twice before you get too far into this, manufacture one, use it and cause your (or someone elses) engine some damage.
When I studied engineering CNC was just becoming a reality although machines only just about knew how to read punched tape not computers as we know them today. **** I sound old....
Put me straight if I'm being stupid but I would love to see you succeed in this.
I'm currently rebuilding my engine and have thought long and har dabout going the manual tensioner route but have opted for the standard auto tensioner in the end as I have not had a problem with it so far.
I'm confused about two things here. Firstly, what is this talk about the end of the bolt touching the chain? The standard tensioner puts pressure on the chain by pulling on the chain guide. If your tensioner is going to apply tension by a different means then what are you going to do about the rear chain guide which is normally fixed to the standard tensioner?
Secondly, why make it out of Aly? For the size of the component weight can not really be a massive issue. Strength would be a higher priority to my mind. Looking at your mastercam outline it seems that the dimensions of the final component should be man enough but if you made it from steel you could actually slim it down a fair bit. The mounting plates on a standard tensioner are not more than 2mm thick.
Please don't think I'm being at all negative here. I applaud your project. It's just that it may pay to think twice before you get too far into this, manufacture one, use it and cause your (or someone elses) engine some damage.
When I studied engineering CNC was just becoming a reality although machines only just about knew how to read punched tape not computers as we know them today. **** I sound old....
Put me straight if I'm being stupid but I would love to see you succeed in this.
your excused as long as we can see the whupin...lol
That's ridiculous. I might opt for the Berga Edition tensioner instead of my sloppy first-gen A.P.E. cam chain tensioner. If you look closely at my pic, you see that the copper compression washers don't actually cover the slot all the way... so... oil just kinda... comes out. It's sad. Considering how clean my bike is and how much I paid for the APE, i'm disappointed at the amount of havoc it unleashes on my freshness.
Hey guys,
I want to first respond about my choice of Al instead of steel. The main reason was for ease of machining. With a modern CNC mill I can bust through aluminum like nobody's business with just simple flood coolant. In addition, my endmills can run all day without dulling. Also I can crank the spindle speed very high (3500 rpm+) without running into heat problems.
In steel, I'm limited with my spindle speed which in turn limits my material removal rates. And it's true that I would have a smaller part in the end, but guess what -- that just means I have to cut more! Steel will also rust and become unsightly. But the bottom line is that APE did it before with success using AL - no need to reinvent the wheel.
I'm really pleased about the response this is getting. After the first one coming out less-than-perfect, I didn't think anyone would really be interested and I didn't plan to do another run. But, when I get back to school in 2 weeks I'll plan to go ahead with another, this time making 4 or 8. I'll add a finish pass along all the outside surfaces so hopefully I'll get a better surface finish. Also a chamfering pass to clean up those corners.
Jimmy: Truthfully I don't quite know if my design will fix the leaking problems. Are you saying that all the leaking on your CCT is caused by the bolt slots being too large for the bolt heads? Or is there a problem caused by the oil pinhole? At the moment, I just plan to install my CCT over top of the gasket that was originally there. No O-rings whatsoever. Will this leak oil?
I want to first respond about my choice of Al instead of steel. The main reason was for ease of machining. With a modern CNC mill I can bust through aluminum like nobody's business with just simple flood coolant. In addition, my endmills can run all day without dulling. Also I can crank the spindle speed very high (3500 rpm+) without running into heat problems.
In steel, I'm limited with my spindle speed which in turn limits my material removal rates. And it's true that I would have a smaller part in the end, but guess what -- that just means I have to cut more! Steel will also rust and become unsightly. But the bottom line is that APE did it before with success using AL - no need to reinvent the wheel.
I'm really pleased about the response this is getting. After the first one coming out less-than-perfect, I didn't think anyone would really be interested and I didn't plan to do another run. But, when I get back to school in 2 weeks I'll plan to go ahead with another, this time making 4 or 8. I'll add a finish pass along all the outside surfaces so hopefully I'll get a better surface finish. Also a chamfering pass to clean up those corners.
Jimmy: Truthfully I don't quite know if my design will fix the leaking problems. Are you saying that all the leaking on your CCT is caused by the bolt slots being too large for the bolt heads? Or is there a problem caused by the oil pinhole? At the moment, I just plan to install my CCT over top of the gasket that was originally there. No O-rings whatsoever. Will this leak oil?
Last edited by berga; Jan 3, 2010 at 11:45 PM.
Berga, I would be very interested to buy one
Did you finish the second load of cct's yet?
Do they also fit the F3? WIll send you an email anyway.
Last edited by Yuri; Feb 10, 2010 at 02:52 AM.
OK, next run is on its way! Sorry it took so long, guys. This run will be 12 tensioners, and will be the newly-revised Berga Motorsports CCT version 2.0, featuring chamfers and, what I hope will be a good surface finish.
3 Tensioners have been ordered so 9 remain, if anyone wants them. Price is $20 each, plus $5 Priority shipping anywhere in the US (although overseas isn't too expensive either, about $16). Shipping price stays the same no matter how many you buy. Here's a glimpse at the machining design for the next set...
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Andrew/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]
3 Tensioners have been ordered so 9 remain, if anyone wants them. Price is $20 each, plus $5 Priority shipping anywhere in the US (although overseas isn't too expensive either, about $16). Shipping price stays the same no matter how many you buy. Here's a glimpse at the machining design for the next set...
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Andrew/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]


