Excellent solid model. I'm fluent with SolidWorks, NX and Autodesk Inventor, but I've never had the opportunity to do any CNC work. I wish the students here got to touch more machines and do less abstract math. Does the mill just cut that whole block off when you flip it over, or does it mirror the top and make the "base" of the part even thicker?

My friend was with me when I got the APE in the mail, and when we opened the package we both pretty much just cracked up for about 30 minutes and called them out on various stupid things they had done. Your task now, if you choose to accept it, is to improve the o-ring seal design found on APE CCT's, and make their bolt-down slots into holes, not slots. The APE is in my bike now, so I guess that speaks for wether the product works or not.... I could just have gone for a bit better install "feel."

 

Jimmy, could you shed some light on the O-ring design? I wasn't aware they used an o-ring at all. I was planning to install the new tensioner over top of the original gasket, and use it for sealing.

I'm also sticking with the profile of the stock tensioner. The profile can be seen below:



As for the cutting. "Operation 1" is both the extruded round cylinder at the top and the profile at its entire depth. "Op 2" is the aluminum turned over, and only the bottom cylinder is cut. I could attempt to cut the profile in two steps, half and half, but it would make the fixture much more difficult because a more repeatable setup is required. If I miss Op 2 by five thousands, I end up with a non-concentric hole -- not a problem in the slightest. But if I were to miss the contour by .005", I'd have a really crappy looking part!

 

Also -- I'm about to go into a "Modeling and Control of Dynamic Systems" final exam and I'm echoing your sentiment. I swear, I've sat in that lecture the entire semester and all I've learned how to do is manipulate mathematical transfer functions. I haven't learned to control jack.

 

have you had a chance to get some milled? just lookin for an update. gonna try it out if ready, but need one soon so may have to order an ape if the ones your workin on arent done.

 

Hey Sparks,

I made one so far. I had planned to do four at a time, but due to unavailability of stock I could only do one. Also I haven't made the bolt yet - I need to make a special trip to the fastener store to get 5/16 bolts that are completely threaded. Also, the finish wasn't as great as the nice anodized ones from Ape. I haven't perfected my code yet, as they have to machine their parts so beautifully.

Bottom line -- if you were thinking of buying an APE - I would recommend it. At the moment mine just aren't nice enough to send out. I'll post a picture soon. They'll be fine, yes, but I can do better. I won't be back at school for at least another 3 weeks so it's quite a hold-up. Sorry for the bad news. -Andrew

 

ok, thanks anyway. figured id give it a try, lemme know if you need a guinnea pig for testing anyway, give ya an honest opinion when its ready.

 

Here is the result of the first attempt... (minus adjusting bolt)

 

Very cool. I'm in the process of getting my mechanical engineering degree, can't wait until I can do stuff like that!

I'm picking up a parts F2 tomorrow that I'm going to resurrect. Assuming everything works out tomorrow count me in on the first run of these MCCTs!

 

thats awesome bro. few minor refinments and a good finish and your on your way to forum greatness, lol. you have it in no time i bet. keep up the good work sir.

 

Good job sir. Holes, not slots. No shadiness in location. I like it. Here is the o-ring design they use. In my opinion, o-rings should never be used on threads to seal, because... it doesn't work. That side of my motor is always just generally slightly gooey with oil mist from the small leaks in the APE design, and it angers me.