So you use the krylon brand for color coats? What about the clear coat?

 

Krylon is all I buy when it comes to spray paint as it is, but I had to use Krylon anyway, as the base colors are Krylon Fusion, so I have to use the Krylon Fusion clear as well, which, I gotta say, it went on better than the regular Krylon clear I used on the race bodywork.

 

I got the forks finished - new Race Tech springs, seals, wipers, and fork oil - and got them remounted on the bike, and everything torqued to spec.

A couple of guys have requested that I do a fork seal replacement thread, specifically for the F2, as they weren't able to locate anything in our section of the forum - I'm going to verify that there's nothing dedicated to our bike, and create one, if not.



New "Panic" button put in it's place!



I got the tank for the race bike finished yesterday evening, with about 5 coats of clear - tonight, or this weekend, I will get it mounted, and swap the Vortex race cap to it, putting the matching keyed cap on the street bike.
In this pic, you can kind of see that the finish has a slightly "milky" look to it, and this usually goes away in about a day, but as a matter of fact, it had already turned to a beautiful gloss black finish, by the time I put the tank inside at the end of the night.

 

Dig the panic button.

And the tank looks good. Where did you get those stickers from? I'm looking for a few red ones to go on my tank and then just the work Honda across the bottom of my bike.

Also, quick question for ya, I'm thinking about powdercoating my rims. I believe I read somewhere that you have to take the bearings out as they would get ruined/leak grease everywhere. What all do I need to re order to get everything back together?

 

Here is the link to the decals I ordered, and of course, you can always get them from Honda... I was springing for those at first, then found the ones I got at $6.99 for both, as opposed to $25 per side!!

Honda wing Decal / Sticker / DECALS BAY

Order them in 5", and they are identical to the OEM decals. They are very good quality vinyl - I'm very happy with them.
The company is located in Canada, but the shipping was only $3, and I got them within a week.

I have never had rims powdercoated, but yeah, the seals, bearings, spacer, etc., should all be removed... the baking process would destroy the seals for sure, and neither the heat, or the powder coating itself, would be good for the bearing cases.
Anyway, you could use this as an opportunity to replace your bearings I guess, which you might have to do anyway, because you risk damaging them when your remove them, so I would say order wheel bearings (same bearing on both sides), and both dust seals, which are different parts.

I've been able to remove bearings before, and still use them again, it just depends on what kind of force it takes you to remove them... definitely count on needing to replace them.

 

I was asking since now I know I aint the only one using the krylon brand on bodywork. My friend paid me to spray hos whole car with the krylon flat black, crazy right, but it turned out awesome. Though I bought the clear coat at auto zone, it was a heavy duty clear coat supposedly for trucks. I sprayed the car 3 coats of flat, 2 of clear and then 1 flat on top of it so it can have the flat look and not shiny, now I aint no pro but it came out great, he had the car 4 months after I painted it and then he sold it, but the paint was still good. We actually dropped a few tools on the fender while working on his engine and stuff and it never scratched or anything like that.

 

Also happening this weekend, will be the deletion of the rear master cylinder reservoir, on the race bike.
I now have the Tygon 2375 tubing, and the cap, so it's just a matter of cutting to length, positioning, and wiring in place.



This will likely save maybe 1/4 pound, if even that, but as some of you know, racing is about chasing grams sometimes! Slaughter 454 individual grams, and you've killed yourself a pound!

 

Did you have to use a special Tube (Tygon 2375) for a specific reason? Or is it just like normal tubing?

Also, thanks for the post above about bearings and such.

 

Regular vinyl tubing will deteriorate when exposed to certain chemicals, and brake fluid is especially harsh - the Tygon tubing, while maybe not 100% impervious to any break-down, is much, much more chemical resistant - it would seem that is not negatively affected by brake fluid, at least not for a very long time, compared to other tubing types.

No problem... that's part of what these forums are all about.

 

I didn't realize that Brake Fluid was that rough on things. Lean something new everyday. Haha.

And you've been extremely helpful throughout all your post and threads So it's much appreciated.