I guess I'm curious to know how the feeling of the bike changes with approx. 50 lbs. off of it? Does it seem to handle better? And like you said you haven't ridden it yet but I'm sure it will be a crazy difference between the "stock" bike and your race bike.

 

Thanks, and very true what you said... function takes precedence in racing, but form usually comes tagging along, shortly thereafter!

 

Well, I have ridden it - raced it last season, and there already was a little over 40 lb. stripped from it, at the time of those events, but I haven't ridden it since the latest changes. Without a doubt, it handled brilliantly, but that was expected, with a good setup, and the fact that the F2 is a fantastic handling bike, just with the suspension settings dialed in.

But yeah, the first event I make it to this season, I'll be feeling the difference... mega!!

 

I meant this season. Ha. Bad wording on my part. As far as the suspension goes what exactly do you mean? (I'm still learning, this is my first bike)

 

That's a big question, and the answer is not the same for anyone, since it's based on A LOT of variables! In short having the suspension "dialed in", means that the bike's forks and shock, are at the appropriate settings for the rider, and the riding conditions - there's more to it than that, but that's the short answer.

Look up things like adjusting the ride height, which can be somewhat changed with just pre-load, but can be more specifically set by changing the position of the forks in the triples, and adjusting the ride height of the shock (only with aftermarket shocks). Look up setting the proper "sag", front and rear, getting the forks and shock "sprung for the rider's weight" (with gear), and then making further adjustments to pre-load, compression dampening, and rebound dampening, until the suspension performs the best, based on the rider's preference, the kind of riding, and the track/road conditions. Bear in mind, some of these settings are not available on stock F2 suspension components.

 

Small update...

I further trimmed down the aluminum bracket I use for mounting the upper rear portion of the race tail, and since I've been kind of "polish happy" lately, I polished the piece, just since I've got the stuff to do it.



I got the race ignition switch mounted and wired in.



Works wonderfully, and shaved some more weight, just over 1/2 pound.

 

Where did you get the revised cluster glass from? My cluster is in the worst of worst conditions, but every time I search ebay they are also either broken or waaaay over priced. I was thinking about doing a cluster swap but I really dont want to go thru that hassle right now since I still have other thing to do to the bike first.

 

That is OEM... the revision, was in getting the small screws/locknuts/wingnuts to secure the clear lense to the main cluster body, as there are usually screws coming from underneath, through all these holes, and screwing into the black bezel.

 

So you bought that clear lense from the dealer?

 

Nope. It is part of the original cluster assembly - I already had it - the only thing I removed, is the black finishing piece, that goes on top of the whole lot.

Now if you're asking if you can get it from a dealer, then yes, it is part # 37102-MV9-601, and is a touch over $30

Underneath that is part number 37130-MV9-601, which provides a seal of sorts to each of the guages, between the main cluster base, and the clear lens... strangely enough, Honda calls this part, which is a combination of black plastic and rubber, "Plate, reflecting"

There are six screws, part # 92903-24520, which go through the main instrument "case assembly", from the back side, through the above mentioned parts, and tighten into the black bezel, or shroud - Honda calls it the "visor assembly".