The seller is rcttco, and they haven't replaced the specific listing, so I can't give you a link to what I got, as it shows the item as "Sold" and it says "This listing has ended".

Unfortunately, they have a lot of items, but do not have a "searchable" store, which is why the individual listings have to be replaced, as items sell. But, it's obvious they can make levers for about any model bike, in shorty style or full length, and you can choose from 6 colors for the lever and adjuster.
If you scroll down on this particular link, you'll see multiple manufacturer's logos shown, and a little below that, you'll see the details they need, i.e.: 1 Set Motorcycle Brake Clutch Levers Fit for VFR800 1998 2001 | eBay

I would just contact the seller, and let them know that they need another listing posted for the F2, and have them provide you with the link.

They are out of Sacremento, CA.

 

I have the same stainless steel Yoshimura pipe on my bike as the one you are shortening. I rather like the sound of it on my bike. I'd be interested to know how the sound has changed once you get the shortened version back on the bike.

 

Yeah, I may have mentioned it before - I don't remember - but I LOVE the sound from that pipe!! It had this whine, like a turbocharger, when I was on the gas... it sounded really sweet!

 

10-4 thanks

 

So the work on the muffler continues, and I'm limited to how much work I can get done each evening, since I'm at the polishing stage, and one of the 18V batteries for my Dewalt drill have failed, so I only have one battery charge worth of work I can do each night (I don't own a standard drill, though I wish I could afford one right now!)

With some careful measuring, I got the internals of the muffler cut to match the new length required by the shorter shell - this involved some complex Dremel work, as this muffler just doesn't lend itself to easy shortening - cutting down the Yosh RS-3 carbon fiber can was child's play compared to this one.



I got the internal bits clamped for welding, after aligning the cut ends straight, and squaring them up...



... the got the welding done - it looks sloppy, but I had not yet brushed off the slag, in this pic.



This pic isn't so great, but you can see the improvement of the sleeve, after being gone over once with a sisal buff and fastcut compound, when you compare it to the part that was cut off.



After this, I went ahead and used a 120 grit sand-flap wheel, to get out some of the deeper scratches - this has me kind of working backwards now, as I have to do a lot more buffing with the fastcut compound, to remove the scuffs from the sanding, but it's getting there... s-l-o-w-l-y.

In other news, the new rear wheel bearing set for the street bike, and shorter frame sliders for the race bike, finally arrived, both 5 to 6 days later than the should have, due to the weather issues we've had.
I went with the "standard" length, rather than the ones that are extended an inch or so, as with the additional length of the extended sliders, you have a higher chance of the slider just snapping off, and doing you no good, if you have a fall at speed. If the bike just falls over while it's parked, they'll work fine, but the spills I need protection from will likely be on track.

Also, I ordered a Zero Gravity clear double-bubble for the race bike today - it should ship out tomorrow.

 

Not wanting to go through another night of running my drill until the battery charge is gone, and being done, I decided to check Harbor Freight's website, to see what drills they had available, knowing that I could probably find one very cheap, so that I could get this knocked out - I found a reversible, variable speed 3/8 chuck drill, that had a max RPM a full 1,000 higher than my Dewalt, and that had a trigger lock, which I love to have on any power tool - the thing was on sale for $17.99, so I jumped on it, since they had some in our local store for the same price as the one on the website.
Even though a lot of the things you can get there, won't last as long as reputable brand stuff, I do have some tools I've scored there, that have lasted a long time, and are still working fine, so when you factor in the much lower price, especially the sale prices, these things pay for themselves several times over, in some cases.
Since it's an electric tool, I went ahead and spent $5 for a two year replacement plan on it, so that means it will last for 7 years with no issue - what I mean is, if I buy the plan, I won't need it, if I don't get the plan, it'll crap-out on me in a few months!! That's just the way it seems to go for me!

Anyway, now I was cookin' with grease!! The new drill changed everything, and I was so excited about how much faster things were going, I just worked until the polishing was done, while suckin' on some Rum, and jammin' some tunes. The new drill only has a 3.1 amp motor, which believe it or not, is weaker than my cordless, but it was more than enough to get the job done, it didn't bog down on me, and that extra 1000 RPM was much needed.

This is how it looked with the final application of the fastcut compound.



And this is after some runs with the finishing compound on the softer buff.



And a mock-up with the end-caps polished - now we're gettin' somewhere!!



It's not perfect, but with the condition it started in, this is about as good as it's gonna get!



Just gotta get the internals back in, re-pack it, re-rivet the nameplate on, put in the new screws and get this thing mounted again!

 

I'm sure I just missed it but how much did you end up cutting off?

 

I can't remember what the number was, but it was reduced by the shorter piece in this picture, and the saw-cut width.

 

Nevermind! I just so happen to have that piece here at work, because one of my bike-riding co-workers (and friend), wanted to see the contrast in the finishes... it's shortened almost exactly 6 inches, practically dead-on.

 

And I`m sure I missed it, but is that shell RST or aluminium? I`ve been trying to polish mine but it just goes gray...