Bikes looking very cleaned up in those pics, looking good. What size is the head pin on your triple tree stand to fit. My pin for my Kawis is way to small (have to stick a socket on upside down on the pin to use it for the Honda lol)

 

I'll have to measure it for you to get the precise dimensions, but I know it is called "Standard adapter #1" on SportbikeTrackGear.com's website, which is where I ordered it from, and I did call after placing the order, to give them my make/model/year, and verify that the selection was correct.

 

For my F2 I am using a 24mm pin. It's a perfect fit.

 

Is that a one-piece pin, or is it a pin that goes into the top of the stand, and then an "adapter" collar that goes over the pin, using a set screw to hold it there?

Also, is yours a Pit bull?

 

I'm not using a pitbull, I've got a BikeTek stand.

It's a one piece pin that I have. It's a 19mm base that fits in the stand. All the other pins I have are smaller than that on the bike side (13-18mm). The 24mm is classed as 'oversize' because the bike side is larger than the stand side. Certainly works nicely though.

 

^^ yeah it is definately larger than the two bigger pin options my triple stand came with. I just grabbed a socket that was approx size and slipped it over the pin. Not elegant but worked for the time lol.

 

Honestly, sharky, a socket would be much more solid and reliable than the thin collar mine was sent with! I was kind of surprised.
I'm going to try to fashion something on my own, something that I'll have a little more confidence in - it would be great if I could find a lathe to use!

 

Well the last two days have been somewhat dissapointing, as in the work I've gotten done in two nights of working after getting home from the "day job", haven't yielded much... and what's worse, I've taken a step backward.

I had loosened and re-torqued the stator cover bolts, some time this weekend, and on Monday night, when I ran the bike again for a bit, it seems now that the oil leak is gone, or at least it's now so slight, that it'll take extended use to see any leakage.

I removed/cleaned the front sprocket cover, and inspected the condition of the front sprocket, which looks as good as the rear, so I won't be needing to replace those for some time.

I installed the fuel tank, switched the shift linkage to GP shift, and got a lot more cleaning done on the motor and gearbox... it's looking really nice now.



I also moved the battery cover over to this bike, as it was missing one, replaced the broken OEM rearset on the brake side, installed the fender eliminator and tail light apparatus, and tested all lights and signals after making the harness connections - everything works fine, except for the tag light, which I think just needs the bulb replaced.



Now the bad:

Immediately after cleaning/setting up the carbs, the bike fired up right away, and I've had no problem starting it at any point. There was a very, very slight fluctuation in the idle, and a very slight, "hanging" in revs, after throttling it up, and I know the cables are not responsible for this, as they are adjusted perfectly, and pull/return with ease.
Typically, this could be a sign of a slight vacuum leak, but I wanted to get the airbox assembly fully re-mounted, so I could see how things ran.
After installing the airbox, it did run more steady, but I still was not convinced there might not be a slight leak somewhere, and intended to test that before putting all of the plastics back on.

So, here's where I was really dumb: firstly, since it ran just fine once I cleaned the carbs, and I thought the PO had recently changed the plugs, I didn't even bother to pull and inspect them, and that's not typical of me, I think I was just thinking about too much at once, and let that detail slip.

Secondly, and this is REALLY stupid on my part, is that while I had the carbs off the bike, I didn't verify that the clamps on the carb-side of the rubber boots were all snug! ...idiot move!! Now, I knew that I would properly mount and tighten the boots on the motor side, but it did not occur to me to check the carb side, in the event that someone before me loosened them, and failed to tighten them back.

So, last night, after I'm moving forward with getting ready to put all the fairings on, and be done, I found that it won't start anymore... it was colder last night, than when I'd run it before, but that really doesn't matter, as I heat the garage with a forced air propane heater anyway.
I took a screwdriver to the one carb-side boot clamp I can reach with the carbs installed, and sure enough, it was quite loose! So I'll be picking up some new plugs during lunch today, and tonight I will remove the tank and airbox again, and loosen the carbs from the motor, just enough so that I can make sure all four carb-side clamps are tight.

 

You might kick yourself for missing a simple fix, but if that's all it ends up being, definitely better to have worked out the problem and been able to fix it easily than numerous other possible outcomes.

If you can make a 24mm pin for your front stand I imagine it would be super stable. My stand isn't exactly top of the line but the bike feels very solid on the stand. I have to squeeze between the bike and a trailer in the garage and I'm always bumping the bike but it doesn't shift at all on the stand.

I've refurbished my forks, rebuilt my front brake calipers and put steel braided lines on the front. That was all I had planned for the winter so now I'm drumming my fingers waiting to get out and ride. I've seen a few bikes on the road today, the weather isn't too bad, but still a little too early for me. First track date of the year is in April though so not too long to wait.

 

I'm fairly certain things will work when I'm done tonight, it just makes sense, in retrospect... unless through some "Twilight Zone" kind of event my coils and/or CDI just happen to croak all at once!

The truth is, it is stable, for now anyway, I'm just saying the pin/adapter collar combination that came with the stand surprised me in that it does not look very sturdy... it works, but I guess what I mean is that I expected something much more... "unobtainium" looking, and solid, from a Pit Bull product.

The wait for track time is a killer, that's for sure.

So was the fork information I provided (rather late) of any benefit, or had you already worked that stuff out?