Speaking of faux carbon fiber, earlier I had installed some replacement mirrors which were identical in shape and mounting to the factory mirrors, but with the fake finish, and a reduced weight of about a 1/2 pound.
I stumbled upon a different set which I friggin' love!
These are also just a carbon fiber look finish, but they have a MUCH more modern profile, are now lighter than stock by just under a 1.5 pound for the set, and actually give better visibility, with no vibrating or shaking with the exception of a very slight vibration from the left mirror, ONLY at idle.



I REALLY love the way these mirrors look, giving the bike a much more modern appearance.



You can see, in these pictures, that I chose to ditch the tank cover - the original colors on the tank, matched with the new fairings, has grown on me - at least until I have the tank painted black.
Losing the tank cover lost me 2.5 pounds!

 

Next, it was time to address my rear paddock stand...
Up until this point I used a stand that employed the "paddle" type supports, but got sick of the rubber coating on the paddles tearing, and, since the swing arm is at a slight angle, occasionally it will slide just a little, marking up the finish on the swing arm. I redipped the paddles in a rubber coating over and over, and wrapped tape to hold the crap together, but it just gets ridiculous. So I ordered a set of Delrin swing arm spools with 8mm bolts, acquired a couple of 8mm X 1.25 pitch X 22mm long coupling nuts like this...



...and welded them to the swing arms, symmetrically.

With the spools in place, I swapped the paddles for the connectors with the "crooks" in them, and lifted the bike - I am able to sit on the bike while it is supported by the new spools, and bounce on the seat pretty hard, so, the welds are good.



I will never go back to using the "paddle style" lift again...EVER!!

 

Regarding the fairings, one thing I forgot to mention before, is that there were no "connectors", supplied with the fairing kit, to be used for joining the two halves of that front-inner cowling, that joins the two main side fairings together, and "finishes" that lower-inner area.
I found that automotive trim fasteners work PERFECTLY for this - and I think it looks pretty good.



There's the two you can see in this pic, two more that hold the upper part to the center fairing, and one underneath the bike that holds the two side fairings together. I chose sizes that are easy enough to press in, but take some work to squeeze back out - quite a few thousand miles later, and none of them have budged.

 

Thats a clean bike you have there. Definately a lil jealous considering i dropped mine rollin through a construction site full of mud one day leaving work. Plus the prev owner didnt know the concepts of removing bolts and my plastics are ziptied all over bc of that.but i only paid 1,000 for it replaced front and rear tires so basically paid 1500 so far plus soon to be new sprockets and chain all for under 2000 i cant really complain

 

Thanks Rob - I started with an amazing F2 specimen, and am OBSESSIVE about good care and maintenance...and, of course, makin' it lighter, faster, better!!

 

What size rear tire are you riding?

Sorry to hear about the accident, but it could have been a lot worse. I am sure you're thankful. It is unfortunate that oblivious drivers are all over the place, but at least you were alright for the most part. And not to mention your bike still remains cleaner than 90% of the f2s I see in pictures or on the street.

With all the streetfightering going on, it's nice to see a very clean fairinged bike. Even if it isn't the originals.

 

So, the front brakes are not finished, but with the new braided lines, full bleeding of the system, and pleny of life left in the current pads, I can bring this baby to a pretty quick stop, from upwards of 120mph - I have further plans for the front, but I will be doing that later, before I hit the track again in July.
Rear brakes, however, are bone stock, and in need of help - I know a lot of riders don't use the rear at all, but starting out as a MXer, I used the rear brake to bring the bike down in the front, when in the air, to land with balanced suspension on the backside of jumps (this happens by stopping the rear wheel spin, and transferring some of that force to changing your horizontal axis down/forward).
Anyhoo, I'm not planning to get this baby airborn , I'm just saying there's no reason not to use the rear brakes, if anything, it's quite the contrary.
I have used the rear brake, along with the front, to help slow the bike down, since back in the days of yore, and have become very skilled at using balanced braking to slow the bike down, in all types of situations, without locking the rear wheel - or, purposely locking the rear wheel, in some instances.
The bottom line is, I want high performance braking in the rear as well, and of course, lighter weight and pretty parts .

Galfer braided lines only saved about 3/4oz (hey, they're still lighter!), but look great, in addition to improving lever-to-caliper power, just like in the front:



EBC Pro-Lite contour rotor (8.29 oz lighter than WORN stock rotor), coupled with EBC double-H sintered pads:



So, mission accomplished - rear braking power drastically improved, and I lost another 1/2 pound+

 

No doubt, it could always be worse! I'm a big fan of this quote I once heard:

" I used to complain about my shoes, until I met a man with no feet"

I was pissed for sure, but, what do you do but go on, right?

Tire size, by the way, is just stock: 160/60ZR-17

 

That's some progress in this thread! good job the bike looks amazing
So what's the total weight reduction?

 

Good question - I'll add up what the total is at this point of the build...