No Spark
#31
Yay!!!! Score another one for us! Glad to be of help. One thing at a time.
You can get new factory-like connectors online.
It really helped that you were specific with your readings and explanations.
Buy some electrical shrink tubing, if you can't get a plastic connector, to insulate the wires.
Nice job!
You can get new factory-like connectors online.
It really helped that you were specific with your readings and explanations.
Buy some electrical shrink tubing, if you can't get a plastic connector, to insulate the wires.
Nice job!
Last edited by Billistic; 12-07-2010 at 11:35 PM.
#33
No spark again, I don't know what happened. I had the motor running for about 30 seconds yesterday, then it quit and wouldn't restart. Grounded a plug and tried to start but no spark. I have lights so we're still closer than we were last week.
I guess I'll read through the "No Spark" diagnostic procedure again and see what I can come up with.
I guess I'll read through the "No Spark" diagnostic procedure again and see what I can come up with.
#35
#36
#38
Ok, I got it running consistently now. I switched out the right handle bar control assembly, I had one laying around. Must have also had a faulty stop switch.
Having carb troubles now I think. The engine will only idle with a good bit of choke, and, when I give it throttle, it dies instantly. I had this problem when I first bought the bike last year. Had to totally disassemble and clean the carburetor. I already have the carbs pulled out so I'll give them a good cleaning and see if that fixes it again.
Thanks again for all the help. I'll probably start a project thread soon...either that or I'll have a ton of 1990 CBR F1 parts for sale!
Having carb troubles now I think. The engine will only idle with a good bit of choke, and, when I give it throttle, it dies instantly. I had this problem when I first bought the bike last year. Had to totally disassemble and clean the carburetor. I already have the carbs pulled out so I'll give them a good cleaning and see if that fixes it again.
Thanks again for all the help. I'll probably start a project thread soon...either that or I'll have a ton of 1990 CBR F1 parts for sale!
#39
yay! more problems! How surprising. After you guys helped me get the plugs sparking the bike was running very poorly. The choke had to stay on at about 50% to keep idling. I disassembled and cleaned the entire carburetor assembly jets and all.
After installing the fresh carb, I tried starting it. No good. I removed the spark plug from cylinder #1 and tested it by grounding it to the frame and cranking the motor. NO SPARK again!
I switched the two wires around at the starter relay and still nothing. Could someone tell me again which wires go where? I know the red and red/white wires are interchangeable, but what about the other two? I've tried switching them, so I know it's not the problem. I just want to make sure they're in the correct position before I start diagnosing the problem again. This sucks. Thanks for any help.
After installing the fresh carb, I tried starting it. No good. I removed the spark plug from cylinder #1 and tested it by grounding it to the frame and cranking the motor. NO SPARK again!
I switched the two wires around at the starter relay and still nothing. Could someone tell me again which wires go where? I know the red and red/white wires are interchangeable, but what about the other two? I've tried switching them, so I know it's not the problem. I just want to make sure they're in the correct position before I start diagnosing the problem again. This sucks. Thanks for any help.
#40
Starter relay - R & R/W Interchangeable, G/R & Y/R interchangeable.
Red and Red/white should always have voltage if the 30A fuse is good and the Green /red and yellow/red should only have voltage if the key is on and the starter button is pushed in. Sounds to me like the aftermarket relay is set up backwards. I think if you were to make the wires exactly opposite of what you have now then you would have power at your ignition switch. The Red and Red/white wires are interchangeable as are the green/red and yellow/red. Imagine if you were able to turn that 4 pin connector 180 degrees and plug it back in then your wiring would be right.
Red and Red/white should always have voltage if the 30A fuse is good and the Green /red and yellow/red should only have voltage if the key is on and the starter button is pushed in. Sounds to me like the aftermarket relay is set up backwards. I think if you were to make the wires exactly opposite of what you have now then you would have power at your ignition switch. The Red and Red/white wires are interchangeable as are the green/red and yellow/red. Imagine if you were able to turn that 4 pin connector 180 degrees and plug it back in then your wiring would be right.
Last edited by Billistic; 01-12-2011 at 11:38 PM.
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