Update my compression was around 180.I went to do the test again and the compression tester fitting came off inside the head.I put some locktight on it and will try to take it off later today and then will try what you guys recommend.Also wanted to thank everyone for their time in helping me.I really appreciate it.

 

Ah yes... there's an inlet strainer at bottom of pump assembly as well as filtre at output after pump. Those are probably clogged with rust. Unfortunately filtre is built into plastic housing of fuel-pump assembly and not replaceable. Some innovative people have bypassed built-in filtre with aftermarket unit.

 

I replaced the filter at the very bottom I didn’t replace the other one.

 

Last-stage of pump-assembly is actual fuel-filtre for fine particles. It's integrated into housing (pink) and not replaceable.



What volume-flow did you measure with zero-pressure flow-test from manual?

Other test after that is pressure-test in fuel-rail.

 

hey after removing the fuel pump I found chunks of rust in the tank.I removed them and cleaned the gas tank.Added fresh gas and it started right up.I also one of the spark plug wouldn’t thread in all the way.Causing the coil not to go in all the way.My guess is the threads were damaged previously when spark plugs were replaced.Should I leave it like that or retread it?

 

Wow, lots of crap in that tank! Good job on cleaning it out and getting bike running again!

If spark-plug is holding OK, I wouldn't worry about it. But plan on removing head and getting proper thread-repair done next time. When plug is removed and torqued back down, it'll most likely strip. Many people use Helicoils, which work fine for one-time permanent repair. But for parts that will be removed and re-installed many times, coils will unravel and cause future headaches. Best to use solid metal inserts, Time-Serts being one of the best.

 

Depends on how well the plug is in, and how much risk you want to take. You might blow the plug out on a ride, that's not too bad if you shut down fast (You'll have burning fuel spitting out of the empty hole until you do).

You can rethread the existing hole if it's not too badly messed up - that will work if only the top of the thread is damaged, or you can create a new thread and put in an insert - both without removing it from the bike.

If you torqued the plug down and cross-threaded it, you're probably looking at pulling the head and having it worked on to repair. Major surgery - if it's firmly in there, leave it alone.

 

hey so the threads aren’t damaged on the top they are damaged on the bottom.I would like to do a repair that I won’t have to pull the head out.Any chance you think a thread chaser would work.can the time-sert work without removing the engine.What would you do if this was your bike.I also have never removed a engine.

 

How exactly did the threads at the bottom get damaged?

If this was my bike I would very very carefully remove the plug, clean the threads out of the head carefully with a greased toothbrush, examine the plug for damage, and possibly chase the head. I would probably clean the other 3 just to be sure.

But saying that - I have all the tools needed, the time, and if I buggered it up the means to have it repaired properly (though it would suck), and I've had my bike since 1996 - there's not much I wouldn't do to make it work perfectly.

What I would be praying for is, when I removed the plug, that the plug threads were damaged, or the washer was caught on the threads - the risk here is you may get the plug out, but it might not go back in again.

 

hey I just found out the threads on the bottom got damaged from my friend.He get a compression fitting stuck on the head and was worried and tried to fix it without me.He said he stuck a screw driver down there to take the fitting out.he did it again after the fitting was removed to make sure nothing was still there.I can’t believe he did that.How can someone even do that.He should have talked to me before he DID THAT TO MY BIKE.I can unscrew the plug and screw it back in but ones it get down the damaged threads make it hard to turn and I don’t want to use force.