What have you done to your CBR 1000f today?
Thanks for that Gern. I'm ordering a pair next payday. I did a 200 km loop today with some workmates. Man that new shock is really good. Was silky smooth all the way over some pretty bad roads. I can thoroughly recommend the Wilbers shock. Value for money.
Last edited by Bordo; Aug 6, 2013 at 02:56 AM.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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I highly recommend it.
I lowered the shift lever today so everything feels right. Rotated the arm on the shaft one spline clockwise and that lowered the end of the shifter just over an inch, which matches the 1" that the brackets lowered the footpeg.
Note: It took me a couple of minutes to figure out why the arm wouldn't slide off the shaft even with the pinch bolt loosened. The pinch bolt (right above the mid-point of the shifter arm in the pic) must come all the way out as there's a groove in the shaft that the bolt rides in to keep the assembly from coming off if the bolt somehow got loose.
Loosen the 12mm bolt that the shifter arm rides on, remove the 10mm pinch bolt, pull the assembly towards you until you can rotate it one spline, tap it back onto the shaft and tighten the 2 bolts. Easy Peasy.
I lowered the shift lever today so everything feels right. Rotated the arm on the shaft one spline clockwise and that lowered the end of the shifter just over an inch, which matches the 1" that the brackets lowered the footpeg.
Note: It took me a couple of minutes to figure out why the arm wouldn't slide off the shaft even with the pinch bolt loosened. The pinch bolt (right above the mid-point of the shifter arm in the pic) must come all the way out as there's a groove in the shaft that the bolt rides in to keep the assembly from coming off if the bolt somehow got loose.
Loosen the 12mm bolt that the shifter arm rides on, remove the 10mm pinch bolt, pull the assembly towards you until you can rotate it one spline, tap it back onto the shaft and tighten the 2 bolts. Easy Peasy.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1
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1993 Honda CBR1000F US Model in Japan. Waiting for my new windshield, side mirrors, H4 HID kit that failed after 20 minutes. Any of you had issues with HID conversions? 73,000 miles, runs great with micron exhaust 4 into 1. I owned a 1991 CBR1000F Euro model when I was in Spain. Bullet proof reliability, never had any issues...
I highly recommend it.
I lowered the shift lever today so everything feels right. Rotated the arm on the shaft one spline clockwise and that lowered the end of the shifter just over an inch, which matches the 1" that the brackets lowered the footpeg.
Note: It took me a couple of minutes to figure out why the arm wouldn't slide off the shaft even with the pinch bolt loosened. The pinch bolt (right above the mid-point of the shifter arm in the pic) must come all the way out as there's a groove in the shaft that the bolt rides in to keep the assembly from coming off if the bolt somehow got loose.
Loosen the 12mm bolt that the shifter arm rides on, remove the 10mm pinch bolt, pull the assembly towards you until you can rotate it one spline, tap it back onto the shaft and tighten the 2 bolts. Easy Peasy.
I lowered the shift lever today so everything feels right. Rotated the arm on the shaft one spline clockwise and that lowered the end of the shifter just over an inch, which matches the 1" that the brackets lowered the footpeg.
Note: It took me a couple of minutes to figure out why the arm wouldn't slide off the shaft even with the pinch bolt loosened. The pinch bolt (right above the mid-point of the shifter arm in the pic) must come all the way out as there's a groove in the shaft that the bolt rides in to keep the assembly from coming off if the bolt somehow got loose.
Loosen the 12mm bolt that the shifter arm rides on, remove the 10mm pinch bolt, pull the assembly towards you until you can rotate it one spline, tap it back onto the shaft and tighten the 2 bolts. Easy Peasy.
Well I suspect I blew out the stator, regulator or both! First bit of funk was yesterday at lunch, fired up normally and I took off. She died on decell. Started right back up no problem. Then while out today it did the same thing twice while in traffic, both at low rpms. On the way home we stpped for coffee, came back out and didn't have enough voltage to get started. My buddy dropped off a spare battery and I was back on the road so I rode straight home.
I'll get the voltmeter out tomorrow but I've been down this road before. This was the only problem I had with my old VT1100 and now I believe in replacing the whole charging system at once. A weak regulator is taxing on a working stator and vice versa. I figure it's a good time for a battery too. I'll be getting the Shindengen MOSFET regulator (nice upgrade in my opinion!) and I'm searching for a new stator. Seemed the one for the old VT was easier to find but I'll cross reference some part numbers tomorrow.
Oddly enough this happened the day I was picking up my buddies old Ninja 250 for free, gonna clean the carbs on it tomorrow and get it running right! I love those little ninjettes, should be a good match for my wife's '09 Ninja 250R.
I'll get the voltmeter out tomorrow but I've been down this road before. This was the only problem I had with my old VT1100 and now I believe in replacing the whole charging system at once. A weak regulator is taxing on a working stator and vice versa. I figure it's a good time for a battery too. I'll be getting the Shindengen MOSFET regulator (nice upgrade in my opinion!) and I'm searching for a new stator. Seemed the one for the old VT was easier to find but I'll cross reference some part numbers tomorrow.
Oddly enough this happened the day I was picking up my buddies old Ninja 250 for free, gonna clean the carbs on it tomorrow and get it running right! I love those little ninjettes, should be a good match for my wife's '09 Ninja 250R.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 562
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Universal Motorcycle Regulator Upgrade KIT Shindengen Mosfet FH020AA | eBay
or these
http://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_e/electro/reg.html
as they wont work. We have a Field control type charging system. These are for permanent magnet type.
From their description ..
(NOTE)Not for motorcycles with 5 wire stators in which 2 of them are for brushes. Or Field Control Type charging systems using non permanent magnet rotors.
Last edited by Naga_Thai; Aug 10, 2013 at 11:45 PM.
Well yikes, good call on that naga. I've done that upgrade before but hadn't really investigated it for this bike, just figured it would be a good route! Guess I'll do some different upgrades.
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Joined: May 2012
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Brake rebuild - almost!
A beautiful sunny day in the Adelaide Hills so a brake rebuild on the 'newest' old 1987 CBR1000F was decided upon.
This is after the front right calliper seized on the trial run after getting the thing running.
Opening up the master cylinder I was greeted with this.............
So, dismantled the right calliper, cleaned up the line and flushed with fresh brake fluid, lubricated the sliders, cleaned the seals and rubbers and reassembled.
Bolting the calliper back on, the bolts felt strange when torqueing up. After snapping one, I decided on a closer look.
WHO in their fecking right mind uses mild steel bolts for a braking system?? Sheesh. You can see the bolt on the right hand side is stretched as well. Replaced with high tensile bolts and torqued to the correct setting, left calliper bled until clean fluid flowed. Cleaned and reset the spark plugs, fixed the manual fan lead and switch and we were ready for a late afternoon ride.
Got about 25 km from home this time before the LEFT calliper started dragging. Kicked it back into working/rolling form and set off for home. So, I'm going to have to buy a complete seal kit and do both callipers. If I keep getting double the distance each ride, the kilometerage will go up exponentially!
Cheers, SB
This is after the front right calliper seized on the trial run after getting the thing running.
Opening up the master cylinder I was greeted with this.............
So, dismantled the right calliper, cleaned up the line and flushed with fresh brake fluid, lubricated the sliders, cleaned the seals and rubbers and reassembled.
Bolting the calliper back on, the bolts felt strange when torqueing up. After snapping one, I decided on a closer look.
WHO in their fecking right mind uses mild steel bolts for a braking system?? Sheesh. You can see the bolt on the right hand side is stretched as well. Replaced with high tensile bolts and torqued to the correct setting, left calliper bled until clean fluid flowed. Cleaned and reset the spark plugs, fixed the manual fan lead and switch and we were ready for a late afternoon ride.
Got about 25 km from home this time before the LEFT calliper started dragging. Kicked it back into working/rolling form and set off for home. So, I'm going to have to buy a complete seal kit and do both callipers. If I keep getting double the distance each ride, the kilometerage will go up exponentially!
Cheers, SB
Last edited by Sebastionbear1; Aug 11, 2013 at 03:59 AM.
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4,647
Likes: 35
1993 Honda CBR1000F US Model in Japan. Waiting for my new windshield, side mirrors, H4 HID kit that failed after 20 minutes. Any of you had issues with HID conversions? 73,000 miles, runs great with micron exhaust 4 into 1. I owned a 1991 CBR1000F Euro model when I was in Spain. Bullet proof reliability, never had any issues...
Haven't fitted HIDs so no problems to report. So are you in Japan?
Cheers, Craig
A beautiful sunny day in the Adelaide Hills so a brake rebuild on the 'newest' old 1987 CBR1000F was decided upon.
This is after the front right calliper seized on the trial run after getting the thing running.
Opening up the master cylinder I was greeted with this.............
Cheers, SB
This is after the front right calliper seized on the trial run after getting the thing running.
Opening up the master cylinder I was greeted with this.............
Cheers, SB
Cheers
TK