CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

What have you done to your CBR 1000f today?

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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 10:18 PM
  #1711  
Sebastionbear1's Avatar
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Originally Posted by wooferdog
A couple more and I'll be putting on my mating surface goggles
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm, beer goggles! Used 'em a little too often in my yoof.............................. Went to bed with some gorgeous lasses, often woke up with fleas

Get into it Wooferdog, just check your work in the morning.

Cheers, SB

Oh! to get back on topic. I bought a frame and seat for a '91 CBR1000F and am having it personally delivered care of Naga-Thai from Melbourne.

I do see a big Barossa Red night looming!
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 01:52 AM
  #1712  
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From: Mud hut, Zululand
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Originally Posted by steve.zodiac
My dipped beam blew yesterday, no problem I thought, I've got a spare H4 bulb, away we we go............

What an absolute ball-ache!!! Remove righthand side fairing top cover to access the bulb the Haynes manual says, yes if you merely want to touch the back of the headlamp and no more.

I ended up with both top covers, mirror covers, screen, instrument nacelle and instruments unbolted to get to the back of the headlamp, (just about), only to discover that the bulb retaining clip was broken and the rubber cover for the back of the bulb had been attacked with a knife removing whatever from around the contact pins for the bulb. I have had to reinstall my spare bulb without the retaining clip, the rubber surround seems to be doing a good job of holding the bulb in place temporarily until I can source some new bits.


It looks like I'll have to remove the whole of the upper fairing to effect a replacement of the headlamp, or a new retaining clip, plus I will need a new sealing rubber or knowing my luck I'll end up with water ingress into the headamp and another blown bulb.

I now remember why I've never owned a bike with a full fairing before lol!!!!

Cheers, Steve
Have a look in the "how to" section Steve - I did an article on it with pics that may help........but yes it's a ball ache
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 04:05 AM
  #1713  
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I replaced the bushes in the top of the rear shock this arvo. Easy job doing the bushes just a little more labour intensive getting the shock out. Ended up having to take the swing arm out which wasn't a big deal. I'm going to replace the chain guide rubber on the swing arm before I put it back together. I'd have loved to put a new shock in her but funds don't allow that atm. At least there wont be any upward play in the rear now ( I hope ).
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 04:49 AM
  #1714  
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Good job Bordo, can't beat a tight rear end!
Some of the aftermarket shocks can be horribly expensive...you will have to keep saving.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 06:28 AM
  #1715  
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After reading a lot of good tips on the 1000f i checked and cleaned my fuel pump and relay connections, Need to find a gauge now to check the air pressure in the forks.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 08:21 AM
  #1716  
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Originally Posted by Sprock
JLPINEDAS - just pull the lower hose at the pump - you'll get all the coolant you need out - out
Then fill it back up with premix 50/50 - let it burp a few times
__________________________________________________ ____________________________

Put the 1990 carbs on my 1987 -- now it runs sooooooooooooooo smooooooovvvve
Only change required to put MK2 carbs on a MK1 -

A cap for the 1990 carb petcock port - I robbed a vac cap form the original carbs

& of course the fuel feed is waaaay better now
going round back and in from the right side as opposed
the hard 180 and down in the left as was before with original
carb's.

Carb intake(s) foot print is the same as are all the throttle and choke lines everything
bolts up and attaches just hunky dory.

Observation - have to say the castings and design of the MK 2 carbs are a marked
improvement over the original 87 88 carbs --- imo

Oh and when I pulled the original carbs - most of the pilots were gunked from the
tank rust problem and each bowl had nice healthy 2mm high amount of rust residue
in them.

No pilot to mains acceleration hesitation anymore - seems to me the pilot jets
and air screws are more susceptible to clogging by virtue of the castings & methods
employed in manufacturing the MK1 carb's and may explain why a lot of MK1 owners
have that hesitation issue ! which is due to pilots fouling very easily

.. Just my humble opinion hope it helps others with the hesitation issues

My advice for MK1 owners with carb issues - find a set of MK2's and fit 'em up
as I said - they are in my opinion a much better design
GEESH! Something else I will have to do on mine... Thanks Sprock

Winter Project...
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 09:02 AM
  #1717  
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From: Mud hut, Zululand
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Welcome Tatt !
Enjoy what we have to offer. Grab a manual to check what you need
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 12:44 PM
  #1718  
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Originally Posted by Shadow
Have a look in the "how to" section Steve - I did an article on it with pics that may help........but yes it's a ball ache

Thanks Shadow, will do, I just need to get a new rubber boot for the back of the headlight then I'll have it apart again to sort it.

Cheers, Steve
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 01:24 PM
  #1719  
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From: Wappingers Falls, NY
Default Coolant flush

I flushed the coolant. I used distill water to rinse it out then drain it, refill it with distill water again; however, i had to get going so i left the distill water in it. I will drain it again tonight and add 50/50 prestone aluminum safe coolant. I will post pics later and how to do as well.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #1720  
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From: Bir Tawil
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Installed my new ElectroSport R/R. She is holding charge at idle with high beam on now.
 
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