Well i have the day off finally and did a few things to see what it could be. My battery is chargering correctly, the battery will turn the bike over with ease. I have notice when it warms up like around 50 degrees F the bike starts up with one tire oppose to a million tries 7:30 in the morning where it is around 30 degrees F. Do you think i did my valve adjustment wrong? I notice she ticks alot more even when she is wamed up. The bike drives and handles nicely once it is warmed up all the way. I sometimes have to play with my choke to get a little bit more fuel to it. Thanks

Steffen Sparks

 

Stephen. As you can tell by my log in, I had some Kz1300s. They were a bear to start. Got rid of them and now have a 91 CBR that is a bear to start (just got it last week and will be working on the problem soon). Also, I had a Valkyrie that was a bear to start. The Valkyrie turned out to be in the choke cable (only choked 80% or of the way until adjusted. Warm weather was easy to start on 80% of choke!). The KZ1300s turned out to be bad coils. The coils were cracked and would only start well when the engine was warmed up. When cold, they required starting fluid. Since you stated that starting fluid does not help, I would think that would lead me to believe you have an electrical problem. Starting fluid should work if the plugs are firing. So, even if the carbs were supplying ZERO fuel and you shot some starting fluid into the air intake, the engine would fire for a second or two then die, if there is spark to the cylinders. Since the engine will not fire with starting fluid, the problem is the plugs are not providing a good spark to fire that volatile fuel - starting fluid... Check your coils and plug wires for cracks or grounding (watch them in the dark to see if there is arcing going on). My bet is on a cracked coil or grounded plug wire. Make sure that you are getting full battery voltage to the coils when you crank the engine over. I had a Sportster that would loose 2 volts to the coils when the engine was cranked over (70s Sportster are bad for that). Once fixed (rewired the coils to get direct battery voltage via a relay that the starter button energized), the Sportster never had another starting problem.
Let me know if this helps. Joe in "Sparks" Nevada

 

Well I won't argue with KZ1300rider, they are some very valid points.

But prior to reading his post my thoughts after reading your mod list was, Have you got larger jets fitted? Primarys & mains would need to be upped.

K&N, Big Bore, gutted performance pipe all add to ultra lean running. This would rear its head more in cold weather of course.

You may get away with a K&N and aftermarket slip-ons with out changing jetting in warm weather, but even these changes start to take effect on fuel demand in cold weather.

Also,"No Fuel Pump" I am guessing here, but I would suspect the genuine needle & seat set up would be such to need pump pressure to allow correct fuel supply.

Just my 2c worth.

Cheers

 

Had the same problem,and like you, checked everything (as I thought) !! I eventually noticed that although the battery seemed to be well charged, there is a level (somewhere above half charge), at which the engine wouldn't fire. This had become more frequent with the drop in winter temperature. I now maintain the battery on a trickle charger and haven,t had the problem since.
This problem was baffling because I have 4 other bikes and when there is a hint of power in their batteries they will start.
In 30 years of biking I never came across a bike that needed the battery to be as highly charged as my 1989 CBR1000F-K.

 

Have you tried detaching your fuel line from the petcock and cranking the bike?
Fuel should flow freely, if it does not flow or is a trickle the cut-off diaphram is prolly bad.

 

drain the gas on the 4 carbs