Spools : on 1000F swingarm
'bout time! 
... so what did you need to cut the L groove into? i thought it had to do with this, or is there something not visible from this angle?

... so what did you need to cut the L groove into? i thought it had to do with this, or is there something not visible from this angle?
It should be strong enough, the load is distributed by the shoulder of the block
inserted into the end of the swing-arm. So it is all sheer. The adjuster bolt
just ensures it stays in place so the shoulder can do it's job.
Nicely done, big guy!
Ern
inserted into the end of the swing-arm. So it is all sheer. The adjuster bolt
just ensures it stays in place so the shoulder can do it's job.
Nicely done, big guy!
Ern
By the way, Now that I've seen the design, yes you could have cut the shoulder with
a table-saw and made it a one-piece design. You just lower the blade down to the
height of the shoulder and move the fence in to cut the cheek of it. The fence rides
against the outside face of the block. So if the block is sized to final dimension first,
just turn it 180 to cut the two parallel shoulders, re-adjust the fence for the ends and
re-run. That will mill a rabbit around all four edges.
Ern
a table-saw and made it a one-piece design. You just lower the blade down to the
height of the shoulder and move the fence in to cut the cheek of it. The fence rides
against the outside face of the block. So if the block is sized to final dimension first,
just turn it 180 to cut the two parallel shoulders, re-adjust the fence for the ends and
re-run. That will mill a rabbit around all four edges.
Ern
Well Malbo - as Ern knows two - there's a block of alum inside the swingarm to take all the weight and it's doweled into the rear outer block - the adjuster bolt does nothing only tension the adjuster as it's supposed to........... it'll never move or break
And indeed Ern , mark 2 version - I will use a table saw with carbide tipped blade to cut an L ! - hopefully I keep all fingers
Regen' - what you doing in the 1000F section - bored or something ?
And indeed Ern , mark 2 version - I will use a table saw with carbide tipped blade to cut an L ! - hopefully I keep all fingers

Regen' - what you doing in the 1000F section - bored or something ?
Last edited by Sprock; Mar 19, 2012 at 11:13 AM.
My question is WHY. You can't do chain work or remove the rear wheel w/o removing the adjusters.
You have the lift where you can strap the bike down. In the shops the guys strap the bikes down. You can turn the lift upside down and the bike doesn't move.
It sounds like a classic case of cabin fever.
You have the lift where you can strap the bike down. In the shops the guys strap the bikes down. You can turn the lift upside down and the bike doesn't move.
It sounds like a classic case of cabin fever.
really
lol - well the PitBill stand I have for the rear is this one so you could say
taking the rear wheel off is no problem flipping the adapters around and using the
pads - only reason as I said in putting spools on was less chance of the bike slipping
off the pads doing other more aggressive wrenching tasks .... know what I'm torquing
about TBT
Also I may have a brand spank me new ride soon - very green in color - very large in
hp - you could say right now - it's the fastest production bike on the road
lol - well the PitBill stand I have for the rear is this one so you could say taking the rear wheel off is no problem flipping the adapters around and using the
pads - only reason as I said in putting spools on was less chance of the bike slipping
off the pads doing other more aggressive wrenching tasks .... know what I'm torquing
about TBT
Also I may have a brand spank me new ride soon - very green in color - very large in
hp - you could say right now - it's the fastest production bike on the road

Last edited by Sprock; Mar 21, 2012 at 11:25 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




