You're not "the only one riding the old 1000f" - there are plenty of us.

We did tell you not to mess with the insides of the engine though ;-)

 

Ok thank you. I had to mess with the insides, though. I now put it all back together but let the engine out of the frame. Wanted to check whether or not the starter motor is moving the crank shaft.

Well, it does not! As far as I know, the culprit can be that freaking clutch on the generator shaft. I think they call it starter cluth and I am not speakting of the "one way turning thing" that is driven by the starter motor more or less directly.

So I am talkin bout the clutch like thingy that got little friction plates in it. I got the feeling it "runs through" (no grip). But what brings the pressure to it? I mean, there are strong springs on a normal clutch and by pulling the clutch lever you relase that pressure. Easy to get.

But where is the pressure in that little beast? I know there are 2 (two) smaller spring like rings (like bended washers) right next to the "one way turning thing". Do you know in which direction these springs have to be put on the generator shaft? I really think that the starter works fine and that it drives the generator shaft, but that little cluth thing will not carry on the forces over the chain to the crankshaft.

How do you fix this permanently?

thank you
Markus

 

You can get a replacement part. They are still available:


Others have managed to rebuild them. Search the forum. These units eventually fail, but if you get a new one now, you'll never have to touch it again!

 

Ok, so this little thing is nothing but a clutch-like damper, right? I suppose its purpose is to reduce the stress in the generators peeks, right? Again I completely dissambled my engine last night (from midnight to 3am). I opened that damper and checkts everything. the friction plates and metal plates looked great. Thick enough, I guess. I cleaned it and put the washer-springs in the right order. I had them installed the wrong way before. Now the rod has more grip. Could not test the starter motor though.

What I notice now: Everything is mounted and assembled after the book. Every tensioner works great and is clean. Crank case and shaft are great, bearings too. Transmission and clutch look good, too. There is still NO oil in the system. I can move the crank with a 14mm key on the ignition side, right? But this is very hard to do. You can feel the sprockets through the 14mm key. It is rough and really rather hard to move. Is this correct? Or does it haveto be way more easily?

 

Did you put everything back together dry?? I hope not. You should oil all bearing surfaces, etc when assembling otherwise you will cause some premature wear on lots of things.
You're too deep now but there's merit in the saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

 

Yup, assembly lube when putting stuff back together.

Does pump need priming when installing? Some do.

There's also an oil-pressure relief valve with spring somewhere. Might be dried out and seized.

 

[QUOTE=rockpool;1357635]You're not "the only one riding the old 1000f" - there are plenty of us.

We did tell you not to mess with the insides of the engine though ;-)[/QU

I'm another Hurricane rider , I absolutely love the bike I only wish I could put Her on a diet... lol She's a little heavy , but makes for a smooth ride !!

 

HI there, everything was lubed well. everything is "free" and nothing is seized. I think it should work now. the starter motor is strong enough to turn it well. So...ready to start...I thought...

I HAVE NO SPARK

None of the 4 plugs has a spark. I followed the maintenace book and the fault diagram. Leading to "faulty spark unit"

I have all the correct resistances and 12V are available on the spark unit connector with ignition on and kill switch "run". When kill switch "off" 12V are no longer there. Resistance on pulse generator is good, too.

So, is it very common that the spark unit just dies? Is there a way to check it for sure? Can I resolder maybe? Open it?

any further help here? :-(

thanks alot,
Markus

 

Ok, I don’t know why but I had a spark eventually.

engine runs. Sounds quite high pitched though. Maybe it has to groove in first. Battery shows 14+ volts when running.

cyl 3 pipe is not getting as hot as the others. Will check spark plug and carb jets on this one.
I think that’s the reason why it dies not rev higher than 5k without having a bad feeling.

two things first:
1. The stick coil mod. Is it as easy as it looks? What bike would definitely be the best donor for that?
2. Always reading about regulator/rectifier issues. What is it all about? What is the problem there? How to check if mine are affected?

so next would be another compression check and then syncing the carbs.

Any good ideas or tips here. Anything I should def do next?

thx

 

Please check here 😊


thx