Hi there,
in you don’t mind I would like to share my ongoing rebuild of my recently bought sc24.
what do I have? Cbr 1000f 1989, 95tkm, few minor issues on plastics, removing all the plastics I see a bike, that obviously has not been touched very often besides the usual and mandatory maintenance services. There’s still the 1993 dust on it. Air filter element and box is mint and clean. Spark plugs too. Fuel tank is in top condition.

I started today with removing the carbs and ultra sonic carbs 3 and 4. They also were in good condition. No yellow sticky stains inside. Really good so far. The idle jets were clogged though.

after the carbs I will check compression. And here’s the first and most important question: would you remove the engine for full check up? My most concern is, that maybe cam chain, alternator chain or main chain might be lengthened after almost 100tkm.

reason for disassemble the engine would be the full valve check. Carbon removal, seat grinding…

I can do a lot of things by myself, but once it comes to cylinder honing I am out. I guess that replacing the piston rings just for the sake of it, would make no sense, would it?

the further plan: forks, brakes, swingarm, exhaust…

are there people here that are interested in my story and are willing to help?

thx,
marqus

 

Maybe cam chain tensioner but to be honest these engines are bulletproof - I would not crack it open unless there is some huge problem.

 

Even on 100tkm?

 

When you get an old bike that runs and you want to get a handle on its health, first task should be a compression test when it's hot after a run.

To be safe, check and adjust valve clearances when cold and do another hot compression test.

If you've got good compression, continue with cleaning, adjusting, etc.

If you've got poor compression (even on just one cylinder), you're looking at an engine-out top-end rebuild, at a minimum.

It's always good to uncover the big things early on.

 

Even on 100km - if it was looked after, fed good fuel and oil, it might be just as fresh inside as it was when it shipped from the factory. As others have said, do a compression check, sort out the valve clearances, and go from there. Once you crack the engine you're into tens of hours of effort and hundreds of dollars of parts...

 

Thank you, I will come back next week after checking valves and compression.

 

I'm very interested in your ongoing restore and would look forward to keeping current on the progress.

I would agree with rockpool about avoiding an engine teardown, if possible. This engine is big/heavy and a bit of a pain to get off the frame without a good lift and jack setup. My recent experience found it was more about lifting the frame off the engine.

 

Question: a fairly new chain (drive chain), that had not many miles but set on rust on all the middle parts, is there a way to clean it? Put it in diesel maybe?

question 2: changing the 100ps manifold to an open one, will I have to change the jets?
currently there are 130 main and 40 idle jets installed (100ps German version)

thanks

 

Diesel won't shift rust, but it will degrease the chain. Your best bet is to wash it in gas or mineral spirits, then drop it into a bucket of evaporust for a few hours, then blast it dry with an air gun and spray it liberally with some dry chain lube.

Don't mess with the jets.

 

Hi there,

new problem. Since I do not want to remove the engine completely (I will not get that heavy thing back in frame), I followed the maintenance manual. Saying to just pivot the engine on upper rear hanger. I removed everything by the book, but it pivots just to little.
i cannot get the head from the block. I neeed another 3-5mm to get over the bolts.
now, the head scratches on the side frame parts.

cannot see why engine is not pivoting more.

any help? Any experience?

thx a lot
markus