So, decided to remove the engine :-)

Checked head today. Cams, rockers look great. Littel carbon on valves. Removed them all and soda blasted them.

What I still don't get: How does the camchain tensioner work? While in engine, what brings tension to the chain and how? I don't understand what moves that lever. I know, that the oil chamber has to be cleaned and the piston should move freely. But I really don't get it. Any help here?

By the way, there was NO water in the bike. every channel and pipe was filled with soapy, sponge-like nasty stuff. All dried out. NO DROP OF WATER. :-(

Will clean the head with air pressure and power water hose. The cooler is leaky and the water pump is rusty... But still, that is all manageable.

bye for today

ps: there will be videos on youtube soon

 

As far as I can tell the tensioner works as the slack from the camchain comes around it slaps the tensioner as in a way to pump it up as the oil dumps in it at the same time which in turn puts tension on the chain...

 

Hi there, thanks for the info.
here are some of my videos…

does anyone know the color code of the blue on the fairing?

 

Make sure you budget for a Wilbers:

I have Typ 540. It's a huge improvement over the stock unit.

Good luck with your rebuild.

 

Hi there, thanks for the tip.

question: what would you do? I accidentally broke the thread for one of the four screws holding the upper cam chain guide. The three remaining keep the guide fixed well. You think I could leave it like this. The other option would be to change the head completely…
the fourth screw can fit in the remaining thread and even can be tightened. I am thinking about leaving the screw out, don’t want it to losen and fall in the crankcase…

what do you think?

 

How about a helicoil?

 

Don't leave it out, will cause a rocking moment and may fatigue others.

Since this isn't part that's going to be removed and re-installed often, Helicoil will work just fine.

 

Thx you both, but helicoil won’t help because the thread broke side ways, the long way down so to say.
I used JB weld to glue the broken part to the remaining thread/head. I also glued a threaded rod to it and put a nut on top.

worst thing that could happen: the due-cast aluminium piece could fall down to crank or transmission. I think it will be crushed there or lands in the pan…

 

Thinking about throwing the whole bike to trash.

while trying to install the generator I could not get it in properly. The shaft won’t come out far enough to put the nut on it. Also the shaft keeps pushing itself out again (to the left) when tightening the 3 screws. The starter clutch fits well in the starter sprocket, the chain and damper are properly installed. Seems like the shaft will not enter the far right bearing properly. It always comes in totally pivoted as if sth is blocking it. But there is nothing in the way. The rod is always leaning on the side of the bearing when looking through the engineers master piece, the little cap on top of the crank case.

is there a trick or do I have to disassemble the whole engine once again???

thx
markus

 

Merry Christmas

since I am the only one still riding the old 1000f…I removed the engine again and split it up. I understand that the generator tensioner closes a bit, when removing the rotor. That’s why it can be hard to put that damn thing back on n again.

I now installed the generator when case was split. I will work on a little tool to reach the tensioner rod clamp from the oil sump opening so that in future I could losen the tension from below.

the tensioners rod has more than 1cm left to move in.