i was thinking of ordering these (link below) and just do my main beam,
and upgrade my dip with a osram or similar so my break off is still ok for MOT
the bird has over /under dip &main.
i couldn't use these for dip lights,really annoying to meet on the road.

how do you boys plan wiring the "F" ,, one dip one main!!! or what
gawd i know nothing about them, is it a twin filament hid (clueless)
i was just going to see what arrived and wire it up.

scandalous price on ebay for 1 . approx £47

2 x 8000k 35W H7 HID Xenon Automobile Head Lamp RCB-57107 - TinyDeal

 

First off Ken, I wouldn't go for the 8000K units - they aren't as bright as the 4300K and 6000K globes.They are more "blue" and have let penetration. (the higher the number, the less usable light you have until you get to, about 20000K which are purple and useless for the road.)
The bulbs for the Bird are different from the 1000F - separate main and dipped beams on the Blackbird ? Not like that on the 1000F we use dual filament bulbs as standard. All the following may therefore be of no value but I'll put it up to give you an idea of what WE have.
Next there are a couple of different options when it comes to kits
1 - 35W and 55W. Apart from the harness on the 55W being smaller the 55W are really bright- much more light than the 35W units that most of the guys fit to their bikes.A bit of "overkill" I think.
2 There are Hi/Low kits which means that bright and dip are both HID - the bulb actually moves in the holder and changes the focal length of the light to give you both. Then there are the HID on bright only, with the dip running off a separate(but not in fitting) halogen bulb.(It's all one unit) so don't be concerned.

Make sure you fit the ballasts where they will get adequate cooling.

Wiring them is simple - the connectors on the set can only go in one way.
The red goes to the battery, the black to earth. If you have a Brit/Irish bike you have an on-off headlight switch which is required because you may blow the ballasts if you (like me) don't have a light switch (American bike lights are on all the time and you can't turn them off) so a separate switch is needed. Having the starter and lights on the same circuit isn't always a good idea
The harness only plugs into ONE side of your bike wiring harness - tape off the other side headlight connector wiring and just connect the new system to the bulb. Both sides will run, it's how they work.

Lastly that's a nasty price - I bought mine complete from www.virtualvillage.au on e-Bay and paid $40 incl postage. 35W Hi/Low HID kit with all wiring.


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-CBR...item5891b556e9
Blackbird bulb - H7

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_n...at=0&_from=R40
Some Blackbird (H7) kits
Hope this helps you.

 

Hi mate,

I ordered mine from these guys last week and fitted them this weekend.

HIDS DIRECT LTD Store

I went for the 35w 4300k set on my 600F3. they cost 37.00 inc. postage.

have a look around the site as i managed to get them specific for my bike.

Also, there is no wiring to the battery requires as it plugs directly into the headlight socket that i unplugged from the halogen bulb.

Took me longer to get the fairings off and clocks out than it did to fit the bulb!

 

shadow, i had the 1000f before andknow the lights, i was just unaware you could get a dip main(movement) type HID. cheers,, thats why i thought you boys had some plan to use the one for dip and one for main. but i got it now.

yes , bird is separate bulbs, if i fit i will just do main, and a better brand for standard dip.

as for brightness, i don;t want to go too blue so was lookin at 8k or 12 k
don't want to go too blue, just a wee glint.

cheers Meat, i'll look at that site.

 

I was thinking the same thing. When you turn the ignition on, the light turns on, then when you hit the starter, the light turns off until you release the starter button. This cycling is bad for the ballast. What did you do to remedy this? Hard to get the left hard UK switch gear here, unfortunately. I know you can short out the connections in the right side control to not turn the headlight out, but I'm not sure if thats too much draw on the battery...

Go 5000K or 6000K then. Any higher and you get more blue/purple and less lumens.

 

+1 on the 6000K maximum you should go, Ken - the 8-12000K are very blue and you lose light intensity.
The 6000K are a blue white and look good as well as giving great illumination.
My2c worth.

Corruptfile - As for what did I do - nothing yet, fitted the lights to my LUV
When I get another set (coming soon) I'll fit a switch, probably not on the bars, maybe on a front panel with a rocker switch. Not sure yet..............

 

I think its personal choice but I went for the 'BE BRIGHT' theory and fitted 5000 55W Bi-xenon on the CBRF

Also helps when filtering - bright white light seems to get people moving over

Always turn them off before you kill the engine as with all bulbs sudden changes such as the hard wire flicker is not good for life span of the bulbs. But mine have been in for 18 months and nothing wrong yet.

Rich

 

cheers lads, btw i have a o4 bird uk, which has no light switch as standard,
but have an annoying alarm too, i bought a RH switch and it's plug right in.
i leave the ignition on moving the bike about, so it's lights off.

will be handy if i fit the Hid too.