Thanks for the tip Tim, unfortunately the headers are already off now, so I'll just have to guess Will use a bit of exhaust assembly paste, so hopefully that will help.

I need to wait for my new stud extractor tool to arrive before I can get any more work done, the local shop didn't have the one I wanted and the one they did have, they were charging £25 for! Got a set for £15 inc express p&p but I've got to work on Wednesday, so it's gonna be a while before she's running again. Really frustrating, the weather has been terrific, seems all I need to do to improve the weather is take my bike to pieces

Another question guys (sorry)

There are still three old studs in the head, I was going to re-use these with new nuts to avoid snapping them off as well, or is this a big no-no?

Thanks again for any advice

 

From across the smaller pond

I'd go the all new stud route in case you have to pull them again soon

 

I was leaning that way Mark, I'm already soaking them, but I'll wait until my new stud removal set arrives just in case.

 

I have no idea what you mean Steve

Seriously though, a bit of a blast (not blaze, Steve), on the area around the studs, with a blow torch (one of those little butane cylinder ones) works wonders. It was one of the tips my old man gave me when I was snapping stuff on my Fizzy all the time.

Freezer spray on the studs works too. They just shrink slightly and therefore become slightly looser.

Anything beats the snap 'em off and drill 'em out method...

 

Point well taken Dave, got a blowtorch on order. Don't want that sickening feeling when a stud shears off. Bloody thing broke so easily as well.

So get ready everyone for a remake of that old classic 'Blazing Saddles'!

 

I assume you've ordered a cam type extractor? They're really good, but a set of Ezy Outs or similar would be good to have handy as well...just in case one snaps off flush with the head.

If you do have to resort to the Ezy Out and therefore have to drill a hole right down the middle of the stud to screw the extractor in, that's when the freezer spray really works well. You can stick the tube right down the hole in the stud and get it to shrink right down it's whole length.

All jokes aside, do have a fire extinguisher handy mate because all those penetrating fluids are very flamable. There's nothing worse than lighting something up then having to run about looking for a way to put it out.

Hopefully, they just come straight out for you!!

 

Doing real well, Hawkman, thanks.
Hope all is well with you, too. (other than the obvious hell that is exhaust work. lol)
My old d16 honda motor had like 3 good studs out of 9. I'm a pro at breaking those little bastards.
lol..
We always call it stick at work, but I've heard the term "arc" used for stick welding several times.
It's kinda like using the term MIG when you're using flux wire. There's no gas, so it's not MIG... but when you're using the same machine, everyone calls it that.
I'm sure as hell not gonna say "Hey guys, I'm going to get the flux core arc welder" I'd probably get punched.

 

I guess you could immerse the whole engine area in water and use
"submerged arc" - no chance of fire, I guess ?

And I'd fit all new studs too !
Use Coppaslip or something similar to stop them sticking again.

 

Copaslip is a type of copper compound used on exhaust studs, etc. Will never go hard and the studs will come out in 5 years as easily as they went in. I have a tube around always - like ol' Dylan's WD40 - no good spanner jackey should be without it

Anti-seize Compounds - Molyslip Atlantic Limited