Battery Issues
well i found the alternator, there are 3 screws on the outside of it holding on the wiring, i used a voltmeter to check for AC current, and i couldn't get it anywhere above 1.4, so i followed the wiring to the 1st harness i came to it was red and had 5 prongs, i then used the voltmeter on every possible combination of 2 of 5 prongs, and i still couldn't get it above 1.4 on the voltmeter set to AC. seeing how the part os $660 from Honda, and there is only 1 local motorcycle junkyard, if anyone has a local yard that will ship parts please let me have their number, its a 1994 CBR100f thanks in advance
Quoteseeing how the part is $660 from Honda,
It would help if we knew where you live............
Try this - $238
- alternator cover (has all the electrics in it)
MrCycles*Honda*Kawasaki Polaris*Suzuki*Yamaha*Motorcycles ATVS Scooters Utility Vehicles
It would help if we knew where you live............

Try this - $238
- alternator cover (has all the electrics in it)MrCycles*Honda*Kawasaki Polaris*Suzuki*Yamaha*Motorcycles ATVS Scooters Utility Vehicles
see if this helps. Motorcycle Salvage Yards - Bone Yards
ive been looking for a used alternator cover and windings for some time now and ran across this website for scrapyards. sent out 6 emails and within 12hrs got 3 responses each offering a used alternator cover for $100.00, plus shipping.
ive been looking for a used alternator cover and windings for some time now and ran across this website for scrapyards. sent out 6 emails and within 12hrs got 3 responses each offering a used alternator cover for $100.00, plus shipping.
It could still be the r/r! the way the alternator works is there's an electro-magnet in the alternator powered by the regulator, the regulator can turn on and off the magnet as required to have the alternator generate more or less electricity, thus regulating the volts produced!
Have a look here:-
http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~cbr...ice_Manual.pdf
go to page 14-2. the 3 yellow wires are the ac power lines coming from the alternator. the black wire looks like it should be at +12v with the ignition on, and the pin where the white wire goes to the r/r should be earth. Try all the checks the manual suggests (although I never found them to be very conclusive) and then replace the r/r to be safe
technically... you could just earth the white wire that goes to the regulator, and then check the current across the yellow wires witht e bike running, that should take the r/r out of the picture and let the alt run at full power. There is a small chance you could do further damage to the alt though. Try it at your own risk.
Tim.
Have a look here:-
http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~cbr...ice_Manual.pdf
go to page 14-2. the 3 yellow wires are the ac power lines coming from the alternator. the black wire looks like it should be at +12v with the ignition on, and the pin where the white wire goes to the r/r should be earth. Try all the checks the manual suggests (although I never found them to be very conclusive) and then replace the r/r to be safe

technically... you could just earth the white wire that goes to the regulator, and then check the current across the yellow wires witht e bike running, that should take the r/r out of the picture and let the alt run at full power. There is a small chance you could do further damage to the alt though. Try it at your own risk.
Tim.
well i found the alternator, there are 3 screws on the outside of it holding on the wiring, i used a voltmeter to check for AC current, and i couldn't get it anywhere above 1.4, so i followed the wiring to the 1st harness i came to it was red and had 5 prongs, i then used the voltmeter on every possible combination of 2 of 5 prongs, and i still couldn't get it above 1.4 on the voltmeter set to AC. seeing how the part os $660 from Honda, and there is only 1 local motorcycle junkyard, if anyone has a local yard that will ship parts please let me have their number, its a 1994 CBR100f thanks in advance
QUOTEIt could still be the r/r! the way the alternator works is there's an electro-magnet in the alternator powered by the regulator, the regulator can turn on and off the magnet as required to have the alternator generate more or less electricity, thus regulating the volts produced!
Ummm - my version................
The stator/alternator runs off a chain via the crankshaft. The current produced by the rotating probe inside the coil windings in the stator/alternator cover is what gives you the current. The current which is produced by the stator is controlled by the regulator before it charges the battery.
The rectifier part of the R/R converts the current from the stator from AC to DC.
Most problems with the R/R on these bikes are the result of the battery being low on water, or the battery getting too old to do its job. The current produced by the stator cannot get into the battery, ie the battery can't take the charge and as a result the R/R burns up.
I replaced my R/R and because the stator windings were burnt (which you can't see by looking at it) the bike kept burning out R/R's over a period of time - sometimes they'd last 6 months.
Ultimately I replaced the stator/alternator cover and the reg/rec with good parts and no further problems.
Note: make sure the connections to the R/R are GOOD or you get heat build-up and this will also sometimes cause melting of the R/R connector block. I know all of this from personal experience (and much cursing)
Good luck.
Ummm - my version................
The stator/alternator runs off a chain via the crankshaft. The current produced by the rotating probe inside the coil windings in the stator/alternator cover is what gives you the current. The current which is produced by the stator is controlled by the regulator before it charges the battery.
The rectifier part of the R/R converts the current from the stator from AC to DC.
Most problems with the R/R on these bikes are the result of the battery being low on water, or the battery getting too old to do its job. The current produced by the stator cannot get into the battery, ie the battery can't take the charge and as a result the R/R burns up.
I replaced my R/R and because the stator windings were burnt (which you can't see by looking at it) the bike kept burning out R/R's over a period of time - sometimes they'd last 6 months.
Ultimately I replaced the stator/alternator cover and the reg/rec with good parts and no further problems.
Note: make sure the connections to the R/R are GOOD or you get heat build-up and this will also sometimes cause melting of the R/R connector block. I know all of this from personal experience (and much cursing)

Good luck.
Not trying to hijack the thread but I just had a battery problem...
Friday I was in stop and go (mostly stopped) traffic for about 1.5 hours. My grip was fried and I messed up releasing the clutch and stalled the bike. I went to restart it and it was dead. I pushed it off into the breakdown lane and tried starting it again but the starter barely moved. I waited a half hour and tried again and it had a little more juice but still not enough. I was eventually able to push start it with the help of someone. Once I finally got home, the battery seemed fine. I started it this morning as well, though the battery didnt seem as strong as usual. Any ideas on the cause? Was the battery cooked? Was idle not making enough power to power the bike and charge the battery?
95 CBR with new battery put in sometime in May.
Friday I was in stop and go (mostly stopped) traffic for about 1.5 hours. My grip was fried and I messed up releasing the clutch and stalled the bike. I went to restart it and it was dead. I pushed it off into the breakdown lane and tried starting it again but the starter barely moved. I waited a half hour and tried again and it had a little more juice but still not enough. I was eventually able to push start it with the help of someone. Once I finally got home, the battery seemed fine. I started it this morning as well, though the battery didnt seem as strong as usual. Any ideas on the cause? Was the battery cooked? Was idle not making enough power to power the bike and charge the battery?
95 CBR with new battery put in sometime in May.
Was idle not making enough power to power the bike and charge the battery?[
Exactly - under 3000RPM with a standard Reg/Rec + running the fan etc sure to be the problem.
Exactly - under 3000RPM with a standard Reg/Rec + running the fan etc sure to be the problem.
Thanks! Thats what I was thinking. It's good to know!
I'd check your battery water - it is inclined to boil off in such conditions - before you know it, you have a dead battery and a reg/rec in danger.
It's quick and easy maintenance
Just my 2c worth based on experience.
It's quick and easy maintenance

Just my 2c worth based on experience.
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