what removes rust?
#21
10-30-2008, 02:35 AM
RE: what removes rust?
Yeah.. a sandblaster is the best thing you can buy with your money when it comes to fixing up cars. It cleans EVERYTHING and you find yourself saving gobs on parts and it makes cleaning rust EASY. Plus you save tons of time with one of em. I know someone that rebuilds carbs just as a hobby and he makes bank on a lot of the stuff and it takes him no time at all with a sandblasting cabinet. Paid for itself in days.
#22
10-30-2008, 08:31 AM
RE: what removes rust?
I've used vinegar soaks beforeworks like a champ if you have patience. Removed flake/scale rust about 1/4 deep from the exhaust manifold and intake of the "spare" engine for my old Plymouth. Best part is, it de-rusts the insides too. But, you gotta give it time to soak...for what you have there, submerge that **** for a week or so. Mine was so bad, it took six months...but I didn't need the parts, and it was labor free so I could leave them.
Molasses works well too...go to your local feed store, buy "feed grade" molasses and cut it with water...3 parts water, 1 part molasses. Boththe vinegar and molassesmethods will "flash" rust almost as soon as they come out, so make sure they get thoroughly dried and painted IMMEDIATELY...otherwise you're back where you started.
There is also electrolysis if you have a battery charger...best part of it is it will convert rust BACK to iron/steel, meaning your pipes won't be thinner.Find a container that you can sink your pipe in completely. Hook the negative terminal of charger to part. On the edge of container, place a "sacrificial" piece of metal...whatever you got, hell, even an old fork would work for the small part you are doing...hook the positive terminal to that...this is going to convert into rust. MAKE SURE THESE PARTS DON'T TOUCH! That's bad. Fill up with water, set charger to one amp, turn it on...I know, it sounds sketchy...trust me, it works like a charm and won't blow up in your face. 5-6 hours later, remove your part...you will see black metal where the rust was, it is the electrolysis converting the iron oxide (rust) back into good metal. Blow dry, paint.
Molasses works well too...go to your local feed store, buy "feed grade" molasses and cut it with water...3 parts water, 1 part molasses. Boththe vinegar and molassesmethods will "flash" rust almost as soon as they come out, so make sure they get thoroughly dried and painted IMMEDIATELY...otherwise you're back where you started.
There is also electrolysis if you have a battery charger...best part of it is it will convert rust BACK to iron/steel, meaning your pipes won't be thinner.Find a container that you can sink your pipe in completely. Hook the negative terminal of charger to part. On the edge of container, place a "sacrificial" piece of metal...whatever you got, hell, even an old fork would work for the small part you are doing...hook the positive terminal to that...this is going to convert into rust. MAKE SURE THESE PARTS DON'T TOUCH! That's bad. Fill up with water, set charger to one amp, turn it on...I know, it sounds sketchy...trust me, it works like a charm and won't blow up in your face. 5-6 hours later, remove your part...you will see black metal where the rust was, it is the electrolysis converting the iron oxide (rust) back into good metal. Blow dry, paint.
#23
10-30-2008, 01:43 PM
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#24
10-30-2008, 02:32 PM
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#25
10-30-2008, 02:47 PM
RE: what removes rust?
ORIGINAL: Aweasel
Naval jelly will help but there's not many chemical treatments that just make it fall off. Sand blasting is you're best option or you could send that **** rusty as he'll to jethot and you'll get a nice sterling ceramic coated header inside and out back.
Naval jelly will help but there's not many chemical treatments that just make it fall off. Sand blasting is you're best option or you could send that **** rusty as he'll to jethot and you'll get a nice sterling ceramic coated header inside and out back.
#26
10-30-2008, 05:34 PM
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RE: what removes rust?
spoke too soon gents, most of its off but theres this one sections that refuses to come off, gonna go hit the auto parts stores in a bit and see if i cant find one locally, harbor frieght says 10-14 BUSINESS days before i get my stuff, i dont want to wait that long ill pay a little more locally to have it now
#28
10-30-2008, 08:25 PM
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#29
10-30-2008, 09:50 PM
RE: what removes rust?
ORIGINAL: 51plymouth
I've used vinegar soaks beforeworks like a champ if you have patience. Removed flake/scale rust about 1/4 deep from the exhaust manifold and intake of the "spare" engine for my old Plymouth. Best part is, it de-rusts the insides too. But, you gotta give it time to soak...for what you have there, submerge that **** for a week or so. Mine was so bad, it took six months...but I didn't need the parts, and it was labor free so I could leave them.
Molasses works well too...go to your local feed store, buy "feed grade" molasses and cut it with water...3 parts water, 1 part molasses. Boththe vinegar and molassesmethods will "flash" rust almost as soon as they come out, so make sure they get thoroughly dried and painted IMMEDIATELY...otherwise you're back where you started.
There is also electrolysis if you have a battery charger...best part of it is it will convert rust BACK to iron/steel, meaning your pipes won't be thinner.Find a container that you can sink your pipe in completely. Hook the negative terminal of charger to part. On the edge of container, place a "sacrificial" piece of metal...whatever you got, hell, even an old fork would work for the small part you are doing...hook the positive terminal to that...this is going to convert into rust. MAKE SURE THESE PARTS DON'T TOUCH! That's bad. Fill up with water, set charger to one amp, turn it on...I know, it sounds sketchy...trust me, it works like a charm and won't blow up in your face. 5-6 hours later, remove your part...you will see black metal where the rust was, it is the electrolysis converting the iron oxide (rust) back into good metal. Blow dry, paint.
I've used vinegar soaks beforeworks like a champ if you have patience. Removed flake/scale rust about 1/4 deep from the exhaust manifold and intake of the "spare" engine for my old Plymouth. Best part is, it de-rusts the insides too. But, you gotta give it time to soak...for what you have there, submerge that **** for a week or so. Mine was so bad, it took six months...but I didn't need the parts, and it was labor free so I could leave them.
Molasses works well too...go to your local feed store, buy "feed grade" molasses and cut it with water...3 parts water, 1 part molasses. Boththe vinegar and molassesmethods will "flash" rust almost as soon as they come out, so make sure they get thoroughly dried and painted IMMEDIATELY...otherwise you're back where you started.
There is also electrolysis if you have a battery charger...best part of it is it will convert rust BACK to iron/steel, meaning your pipes won't be thinner.Find a container that you can sink your pipe in completely. Hook the negative terminal of charger to part. On the edge of container, place a "sacrificial" piece of metal...whatever you got, hell, even an old fork would work for the small part you are doing...hook the positive terminal to that...this is going to convert into rust. MAKE SURE THESE PARTS DON'T TOUCH! That's bad. Fill up with water, set charger to one amp, turn it on...I know, it sounds sketchy...trust me, it works like a charm and won't blow up in your face. 5-6 hours later, remove your part...you will see black metal where the rust was, it is the electrolysis converting the iron oxide (rust) back into good metal. Blow dry, paint.
#30
10-30-2008, 10:03 PM
RE: what removes rust?
ORIGINAL: RCR
ORIGINAL: 51plymouth
I've used vinegar soaks beforeworks like a champ if you have patience. Removed flake/scale rust about 1/4 deep from the exhaust manifold and intake of the "spare" engine for my old Plymouth. Best part is, it de-rusts the insides too. But, you gotta give it time to soak...for what you have there, submerge that **** for a week or so. Mine was so bad, it took six months...but I didn't need the parts, and it was labor free so I could leave them.
Molasses works well too...go to your local feed store, buy "feed grade" molasses and cut it with water...3 parts water, 1 part molasses. Boththe vinegar and molassesmethods will "flash" rust almost as soon as they come out, so make sure they get thoroughly dried and painted IMMEDIATELY...otherwise you're back where you started.
There is also electrolysis if you have a battery charger...best part of it is it will convert rust BACK to iron/steel, meaning your pipes won't be thinner.Find a container that you can sink your pipe in completely. Hook the negative terminal of charger to part. On the edge of container, place a "sacrificial" piece of metal...whatever you got, hell, even an old fork would work for the small part you are doing...hook the positive terminal to that...this is going to convert into rust. MAKE SURE THESE PARTS DON'T TOUCH! That's bad. Fill up with water, set charger to one amp, turn it on...I know, it sounds sketchy...trust me, it works like a charm and won't blow up in your face. 5-6 hours later, remove your part...you will see black metal where the rust was, it is the electrolysis converting the iron oxide (rust) back into good metal. Blow dry, paint.
I've used vinegar soaks beforeworks like a champ if you have patience. Removed flake/scale rust about 1/4 deep from the exhaust manifold and intake of the "spare" engine for my old Plymouth. Best part is, it de-rusts the insides too. But, you gotta give it time to soak...for what you have there, submerge that **** for a week or so. Mine was so bad, it took six months...but I didn't need the parts, and it was labor free so I could leave them.
Molasses works well too...go to your local feed store, buy "feed grade" molasses and cut it with water...3 parts water, 1 part molasses. Boththe vinegar and molassesmethods will "flash" rust almost as soon as they come out, so make sure they get thoroughly dried and painted IMMEDIATELY...otherwise you're back where you started.
There is also electrolysis if you have a battery charger...best part of it is it will convert rust BACK to iron/steel, meaning your pipes won't be thinner.Find a container that you can sink your pipe in completely. Hook the negative terminal of charger to part. On the edge of container, place a "sacrificial" piece of metal...whatever you got, hell, even an old fork would work for the small part you are doing...hook the positive terminal to that...this is going to convert into rust. MAKE SURE THESE PARTS DON'T TOUCH! That's bad. Fill up with water, set charger to one amp, turn it on...I know, it sounds sketchy...trust me, it works like a charm and won't blow up in your face. 5-6 hours later, remove your part...you will see black metal where the rust was, it is the electrolysis converting the iron oxide (rust) back into good metal. Blow dry, paint.
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