As the subject says I just need help as to what the best setup would be............................. I have four 2 ohm 15' Kicker CompVR (click here for the specs), I have a Hifonics Brutus BXi2008D2000Watt Class D Mono Amplifier (click here for the specs), A capacitor(installed, which does nothing for me now), and a yellow top Optima battery(not yet installed).......Right now from the battery back to the capacitor is 4 gauge power wire. I plan on running the full 0 gauge wiring to the Brutus amp(and yes I do plan on putting a 200amp alternator). Question is: Crutchfield has different setups for wiring the subwoofers (click here) but my amp is a single channel amp with 2 sets of output instead of just one set and Crutchfield doesnt have a 4 sub 1 chan amp dual outputs setup........How should I run the amp to the subs and should I run the power wire from one battery to the second then from there to the capacitor then the amp while upgrading the grounding wire from the alternator. If so can I use the 4 guage from the front to the second battery and from there run 0 gauge to the capacitor then amp or should I run 0 gauge from the front to the rear battery? I was told both ways with a batt isolator that I can use one but I dont have to use one. Hopefully I didnt confuse anybody with that. The help would be appreciated!

 

I don't understand how you have a mono-channel amp with 2 outputs. If you are running 4 gauge wire from the battery, I don't think you can run 0 gauge after that. From the power source, you need the biggest guage you are going to be running in your setup. So, you can run 0 gauge from the battery to cap, then 4 to the amp from cap. I can't answer your other questions though. Never worked on dual battery setups.

 

Alot of companies run mono blocks with two channels they are bridged interanally. Not sure why but they do. It appears to me as if your going to need to run two of your subs togther in series then run the sets of two to the amp in parellel. Running them in series will give you a 4 ohm load at each pair of speakers. The running parallel to the amp will drop it back down to 2 ohms. Or you could sell that amp and find a amp that is .5 ohm stable. If i was you i would scrap the cap. Caps are nothing more than band aids they cover the problem but dont eliminate it. A upgraded alternator and battery is the way to go.

 

Caps do help if you plan to bump yo **** when the car isnt running. It will help keep it from generating noise.

 

Caps are designed to hold a "reserve" charge when idiling and you alternator is not at max effiecieny. It is supposed to help eliminate headlight dim. And what noise? Alternator whine?

 

I dont want to jack here but i have a ? also. When your base hits and drops the voltage so much your car wants to die isnt a cap a good idea?



Pimpin, the only thing i can tell you is run the biggest damn wire you can.

 

I have a cap and I can only turn it up about 1/3 of the way before the lights dim and my batt indicator starts dropping to like 10 volts. When i had 2 15' with a 800watt mono amp the cap was fine but now it does nothing

 

The true issue there is your alternator. You alternator is not strong enough to keep up with the demand. I am not saying caps dont work but quoted from the builder of the alma gates bronco "caps simply cover the problem, not solve it"

 

dont bottle neck any of ur wires, if ur running 0 guage from the source continue that all the way thru, ur 2nd battery shouldnt be that far away from ur amp if ur really running a good setup. theres many ways you can run a second battery, u can have it as a backup to pull the needed power or you can run it in parallel with ur setup. truthfully i would run it as a backup cuz if your pulling that much power to then you have alot more to do and alot more money to throw into it. i run 0 guage from my yellow top to a duel amp setup and she doesnt drain any lights or flicker at stop lights sitting there. you should be pretty good about ur setup. hold off on the 2nd battery unless you really need it. do a lil googling and youll find out how to set it up to what you want. keep us updated and take some pics of ur setup

 

Firstof all, your subs are only 500W each so why in the world would you consider/wantto push2000W to them?

You've got 4, 2 ohm voice coils. So I would wire them in parallel. That will give you a total impedance of 2 ohms. Meaning your amp will be pushing 1300 W to the subs( a little much, but should be okay). Wiring them in series would give a total impedance of 8 ohms, way too much. The only thing you need to check is if you can bridge the two outputs together. To get the 1300 W at 2 ohms you need to have all the amps power going through one positive and one negative. That class D two output thing is a horrible design. Just make sure you can bridge them and you'll be fine.

Finally, the cap. Okay, when you've got 1000W+ being drained from a OEM charging system, theres just no way it can keep up. Basically, each time the bass hits, the amp is simply trying to use more powerthan the car can supply.How a cap helps:The cap starts out with a full charge. Then when the bass hits the amp takes its juice from the cap. Then when there is no bass being played during the music (in between bass hits) the cap recharges (caps recharge very, very fast. Were talking micro-milli seconds). Then its got a full charge for the next bass hit. The only time a cap won't help with lights dimming, etc. is if the music being played has bass constantly throughout the whole piece.