Hi Mr Chips,

Did you do the cam chain at the same time?
Any chance of your parts list with part numbers & prices?

TIA.

 

Hi there,

No, i figured the CCT design should have enough travel to take up any miniscule amount of cam chain stretch (the CCT is huge). Also, i didn't replace the tensioner arm as was another $140 + the old one looked o.k. anyway.

Part number is 14500-MZ1-000 for 'Bracket Tensioner'.

Parts list + prices are avaliable on the website www.mrcycles.com Just look for your make, model, year etc. The CCT part i think the same throughout all the 1000F's

 

HI! Great thread, thanks a million!

Now I wish some one would explain where to find the following items and give bran/model/part number. I looked around and can't seem to find any.

Cam Chain and Master Link,

Chain Breaker / Rivet Making Tool (can one rent this since It'll be used only once)

Thanks again

 

[QUOTE=zblip2;1027596]HI! Great thread, thanks a million!

Now I wish some one would explain where to find the following items and give bran/model/part number. I looked around and can't seem to find any.

Cam Chain and Master Link,

Chain Breaker / Rivet Making Tool (can one rent this since It'll be used only once)

Almost certainly......NO!
but you can use the same tool for splitting your drive chain.... and you'll be wanting to do that more than once won't you?

Part numbers are available in the workshop manual download.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Regarding the cam chain, I read that one has to split open the motor to change it. In the example of this thread, a ''master link'' type cam chain was used, which obviously is simpler and cheeper to install. Is the OEM cam chain a ''master link'' type? If not do I have to buy another brand like D.I.D?
I went to www.mrcycles.com as suggested in this thread, and it is not specified what type of cam chain it is. If I buy a cam chain that has no master link, I'll have to split open the engine to install it, useless to say, there is no way I'm going to do that

Thanks for your input

 

D.I.D do a cam chain with master link. You'll still need the chain breaker/riveting tool to complete the operation.
Last time a changed mine I had the crank cases split to change the alternator chain and tensioner so it was easy to put on a Honda cam chain without splitting it.
Best thing is to call a parts dealer and ask them the right questions. I'm sure you son't have too much hassle getting what you want.

 

Well gents, about 5,000 km after replacing my CCT & the rattle from hell has returned !

For those of you who are thinking of replacing yours, save yourself from being buried up to the elbows in CBR innards & go buy yourself a pair of these.....

 

My sentiments exactly.... 80,000 + klms here & still purrs when compared to the 2008 Hayabusa sat next to me at the lights. My rattle is no where as bad as before (yet) but hey .... ya can't blame a guy for tryin.

105,000 klms you say ?.... guess mine hasn't even been run in yet !

 

+- 100 000 k's now. THREE camchains and a new tensioner.
Waste of time IMO - I'm going to run the bloody thing the way it is, and as and when the bloody primary chain breaks () then I'll fix the whole effing lump and do all the chains etc etc..

I will be trying another carb balance, and layshaft balance adjustment sometime - that does improve things a good bit..............and a good carb clean is on the cards too, sometime.

I just don't run the bike with my helmet off.............hehe.