I hope I wasn't naked at the time. It's vaguely likely. If you were a little ashamed or felt inadequate I apologise. As for knowing what goes on inside an engine...... yeah, I haven't got a clue. I hope you haven't met too many idiots like me. What's the point... after all?

Please let us know what your second hand cam chain sounds once you've spent four hours fitting it.
One more request which is specifically for me. Where are you from? I want to able to read your posts in the accent which suits your language. You may not think it matters but I do take an interest in vocal reproduction through the written word.

Sprok for example..... I always read with a thick Irish accent. It just feels right....

 

Yawn ....... zzzzzzzzzzzzz !

 

Hey,
I know this is being done on a hurricane, but could this be a rough guide for cbr 600 f4i? Only asking dumb question b/c im doing all this tomorrow morning and havent found "how to" for my bike. Thanks alot!

 

www.stephygee.com
workshop manual download.

If you can find a camchain with a link in it, maybe. Tensioner is very different.
Suggest you look in the F4I section for help too

 

Ok here comes the noob question:

My bike only has 4000 miles on it, so I am not anticipating having to do this any time soon.......but

I have heard that the cctl is a weak spot in the Hurricane's engine, so I am wondering, can you replace just the cctl without having to remove the cam? Or would that just be a waste of time? Would I just be better off doing the whole enchilada (chain, guides and cctl)?

 

First off at 4000 miles you chain is good as new - leave it alone for 40000 miles or more, before you play with it.
When the time comes,
I would replace the camchain and tensioner together - you may as well, as you have to unseat one of the cams to get the chain loose enough to get to the tensioner anyway, as I recall. If you split the camchain, and fit a new DID camchain (which has a link) you can then remove the tensioner, as the tension has been taken off it.....
Fit the new chain by attaching one end to the old chain and rotate the engine using a sprocket on the crankshaft (lower left side) to turn the crankshaft gear and when the old chain is all out, make sure you secure both ends of the new camchain, or one end could fall into the engine - not a lot of fun.

 

ranchome, as Shadow mentioned, 4k mi is low for the CCT. They start to rattle at around 15-25k depending on riding style. When the bike sits the oil seeps out and they start to rattle on start up until the CCT fills up with oil and starts to act like a shock absorber taking the slack out of the whipping chain.

AND YES, the removal of a cam is necessary to make room for the CCT removal and installation.

Go back in this thread and look at the pictures on page #1. Look at the spacing between the cam chain sprockets on the cams. The only way to make room for the CCT is to remove one of the sprockets and the only way to do that is to remove a cam.

 

Thanks guys for putting my fears to rest. Time to ride now!

 

I use my 91 1000F for cummuting & at 75,000 km she rattles like an intermitent bag of marbles untill completely warmed up from riding. I tried all sorts of warm up techniques but no difference, always sounded like she's about to explode untill completey warmed up.

Last friday i invested in a new $340 (NZ) CCT & replaced it + i checked & adjusted the valves.

The results from the new CCT where instant. Right from cold startup my 20 year old CBR sounds quieter than most brand new bikes.

On comparing the old with the new. The old CCT tension arm seemed sloppy when removed (even thought the bike was still warm from my commute) as though it wasn't locked in place to keep the cam chaim under tension. The new CCT locked instantly when pumped with oil & stayed locked.

I guess the CCT's valve wears over time, oil drains out easily & fails to provide adequate tension.

This forum helped heaps & saved me a world of hurt both emotionally & financially.