Remote Start Alarm
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Remote Start Alarm
Disclaimer: *All information in this post is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.
This is a walkthrough on installing an alarm with remote start based on an 03 CBR600F4i. Before attempting this make sure to have a multimeter to verify all wires before tying into them. Be sure to read this entire procedure before beginning.
The first thing to do is to find all the wires that you will need to tag.
For just an alarm they will be, 12V, ignition, parking lights, and starter.
12V:
On my bike I got 12 volts on the positive terminal of the battery.
Ignition:
Ignition can usually be found on the bottom of the fuse block. This was located under the front seat by the battery. This wire will test 12V with the ignition on.
Starter:
My starter wire was located at the starter relay which is next to the battery. It has two very heavy wires going to it and a group of taped up wires. The starter wire was located in the taped up wires and was yellow/red. This wire will test 12v only when cranking.
Parking Lights:
Tying into the parking lights will provide a light flash when arming and disarming the alarm. Most bikes have headlights, taillights, front running lights, gauges, etc. on the same circuit, so tying into any of the wires that test 12 volts at the light should work. I would try at the taillights first. There is a way to make just one set of lights flash (i.e. front running lights at turn signals). Ask for information on this if you want to do it this way instead.
Remote Start
My bike is also equipped with two very convenient safety features, the sidestand switch and neutral switch. They will not allow the bike to start in gear if the sidestand is down or if the clutch is not pulled in. Make sure to verify that these switches work on your bike before adding a remote start. For remote start you will need to tag the following wires in addition to the ones for alarm: tach, kill switch, brake. Before going any further let me explain how the remote start works. When activated the alarm will output 12v to its ignition output. It will then send 12v to the starter output. When it recieves the programmed tach signal it will no longer output 12 volts to the starter. If the alarm recieves a 12v input from the brake wire it will shut down.
Let me explain the problem I had when doing my remote start. Normally an output of 12v into the ignition wire will allow everything to power up so that the bike can run. For some reason when 12 volts was given to the ignition the fuel pump and ignition coils would not power up. The culprit was the pink wire in the key switch harness.
With that out of the way heres the remote start info:
Ignition 1: Red/Black, located on bottom of fuse panel.
Ignition 2: Blue/orange, located on bottom of fuse panel
Tach: At ECM. On mine it was yellow with green and was pin 19 on the left plug. It will read AC voltage and change with rpm.
Brake: At rear brake switch. This wire will test 12v only when the brake is depressed. I believe mine was green/yellow. Can also get it at the brake light.
Kill Switch: To get it to start you will need to recreate the kill switch. First find what wires are involved. Mine had Black and white/black located at the harness coming from the switch. You will need a relay to recreate this. Here's what I did.
Terminal 87-white/black
Terminal 30-Black
Terminal 85-constant 12v
Terminal 86- (-) output from alarm when remote started
Pink wire: What we have to do with the pink wire is make it act normal when using the ignition switch, but when trying to remote start it it needs to be disconnected from the switch so it can't be backfed and it ne
This is a walkthrough on installing an alarm with remote start based on an 03 CBR600F4i. Before attempting this make sure to have a multimeter to verify all wires before tying into them. Be sure to read this entire procedure before beginning.
The first thing to do is to find all the wires that you will need to tag.
For just an alarm they will be, 12V, ignition, parking lights, and starter.
12V:
On my bike I got 12 volts on the positive terminal of the battery.
Ignition:
Ignition can usually be found on the bottom of the fuse block. This was located under the front seat by the battery. This wire will test 12V with the ignition on.
Starter:
My starter wire was located at the starter relay which is next to the battery. It has two very heavy wires going to it and a group of taped up wires. The starter wire was located in the taped up wires and was yellow/red. This wire will test 12v only when cranking.
Parking Lights:
Tying into the parking lights will provide a light flash when arming and disarming the alarm. Most bikes have headlights, taillights, front running lights, gauges, etc. on the same circuit, so tying into any of the wires that test 12 volts at the light should work. I would try at the taillights first. There is a way to make just one set of lights flash (i.e. front running lights at turn signals). Ask for information on this if you want to do it this way instead.
Remote Start
My bike is also equipped with two very convenient safety features, the sidestand switch and neutral switch. They will not allow the bike to start in gear if the sidestand is down or if the clutch is not pulled in. Make sure to verify that these switches work on your bike before adding a remote start. For remote start you will need to tag the following wires in addition to the ones for alarm: tach, kill switch, brake. Before going any further let me explain how the remote start works. When activated the alarm will output 12v to its ignition output. It will then send 12v to the starter output. When it recieves the programmed tach signal it will no longer output 12 volts to the starter. If the alarm recieves a 12v input from the brake wire it will shut down.
Let me explain the problem I had when doing my remote start. Normally an output of 12v into the ignition wire will allow everything to power up so that the bike can run. For some reason when 12 volts was given to the ignition the fuel pump and ignition coils would not power up. The culprit was the pink wire in the key switch harness.
With that out of the way heres the remote start info:
Ignition 1: Red/Black, located on bottom of fuse panel.
Ignition 2: Blue/orange, located on bottom of fuse panel
Tach: At ECM. On mine it was yellow with green and was pin 19 on the left plug. It will read AC voltage and change with rpm.
Brake: At rear brake switch. This wire will test 12v only when the brake is depressed. I believe mine was green/yellow. Can also get it at the brake light.
Kill Switch: To get it to start you will need to recreate the kill switch. First find what wires are involved. Mine had Black and white/black located at the harness coming from the switch. You will need a relay to recreate this. Here's what I did.
Terminal 87-white/black
Terminal 30-Black
Terminal 85-constant 12v
Terminal 86- (-) output from alarm when remote started
Pink wire: What we have to do with the pink wire is make it act normal when using the ignition switch, but when trying to remote start it it needs to be disconnected from the switch so it can't be backfed and it ne
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you guys i need help i got a 929 and i hooked everything i thought i needed but my ignition wont prime the FI system when i try to start it with the remote. if i prime it with the key and then use the remote it works. how can i get my bike to prim with the remote i didnt understand what he was talking about with the blue and ornge wire and the pink wire. and just FYI the diode that is in the ignition is a zenar diode 3v i burnt min out lol got a new one for 40cents. but plz help iv been working on it for almost 2 weeks ....
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