Integrated Tail ....Make one yourself for $12
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: BC Canada, All over California
RE: Integrated Tail ....Make one yourself for $12
ok im over my head with this one, I am on step 3 where in you instructions i need to cut the green/yellow wire on the bulb side but due to an accident this bike does not have the right colored wires and I am not sure which bike this tailight is off so i cant look up the wiring schemadic, the 3 wires coming out of the tail light are Black. Black/yellow. Black/white so i am not sure on which ones are for what. I am on hold on this project until I can figure that out. and no the tailight was not installed so i wasn't able to just look to see which ones matched up with what colours. I guess ill see how this project works out but it is a great write up its just me not knowing everything about electrical.
hoping someone is able to help me identify the different colours on the tailight. thanx everyone
hoping someone is able to help me identify the different colours on the tailight. thanx everyone
the green/yellow wire controls the bright filament in the bulb. if you look at the diagram of the bulbs on page one, you will see it goes G/Y, G, and Bl/Br. Now i am assuming the pin order is the same with your bulbs. Im about 90% certain your solid black is the ground, ie, my Green wire. The next ones im not sure about.I would think that your black yellow is running light(my Bl/Br) and your black white is the brake filament(my G/Y).
Turn on your bike, cut the black white one, turn on your brakes, if that light no longer turns bright then thats the right one. if it still gets bright and the running light doesn't work then its back-***-wards.
Turn on your bike, cut the black white one, turn on your brakes, if that light no longer turns bright then thats the right one. if it still gets bright and the running light doesn't work then its back-***-wards.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 77
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From: Sacramento Ca
u can always ghetto rig also.. take a small bevel and make a hole in the back of your tailight housing and insert your current turn signals into those compartments.
that is why my friends did on his bike nad it work OK
that is why my friends did on his bike nad it work OK
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Theres a somewhat simpler way to do this using 2 standard SPDT automotive relays and some crimp-on female tab connectors. Using the left side as an example, tap a wire into the left front running light and run it to the 85 post on one of the relays then ground the 86 post. run the brake bright wire into the 87 post, the left rear blinker wire to the 87a post and wire the 30 post directly to the brake bright wire going into the brake light. Done, now repeat those steps on the right side, using the right sides blinker and running light wires of course.
When your turn the ignition on it toggles the relay to pass current from 87 to 30, which means that sides brake light works. When the blinker for that side is engaged the running light goes out and the relay defaults to it normal state, breaking the connection between 87 and 30 and connecting 87a and 30, letting the blinker control that sides bright brake instead, only the relay for the side thats blinking is affected so the other sides brakes works normally, one sides brakes are always toggled on no matter what.
This just uses standard automotive SPDT relays and a few crimp on female tab connectors to connect to the relays, it's actually pretty close to the same thing that Mitch has going on in his above post but done with commonly available relays. No soldering involved, just a few crimps. After working as a tech I really don't trust solder joints or wire twists much, seen alot of solder joints break and twists are, well, twists. A good crimper using non-insulated crimpon connectors and buttsplices then covered with some decent heat shrink tubing seems to do the trick for me. If you want to be fancy you can even buy the relay plug that connects to the relay and just wire all your connections into it, to each their own.
Anyways, I'll make a diagram and upload one in a few, it's really simple tho, the numbers I listed above are all stamped in the plastic on the relays next to all the posts.
Rez and Mitch's methods are great too, just all about whatever you have available to you to do it.
When your turn the ignition on it toggles the relay to pass current from 87 to 30, which means that sides brake light works. When the blinker for that side is engaged the running light goes out and the relay defaults to it normal state, breaking the connection between 87 and 30 and connecting 87a and 30, letting the blinker control that sides bright brake instead, only the relay for the side thats blinking is affected so the other sides brakes works normally, one sides brakes are always toggled on no matter what.
This just uses standard automotive SPDT relays and a few crimp on female tab connectors to connect to the relays, it's actually pretty close to the same thing that Mitch has going on in his above post but done with commonly available relays. No soldering involved, just a few crimps. After working as a tech I really don't trust solder joints or wire twists much, seen alot of solder joints break and twists are, well, twists. A good crimper using non-insulated crimpon connectors and buttsplices then covered with some decent heat shrink tubing seems to do the trick for me. If you want to be fancy you can even buy the relay plug that connects to the relay and just wire all your connections into it, to each their own.
Anyways, I'll make a diagram and upload one in a few, it's really simple tho, the numbers I listed above are all stamped in the plastic on the relays next to all the posts.
Rez and Mitch's methods are great too, just all about whatever you have available to you to do it.
Last edited by Hangfire; Mar 4, 2009 at 11:58 PM.
