Actually, if you have 1/2 hour its worth propping the tank and having a listen anyway:

If you can be arsed then take off right fairing as it makes it easier, if not then just remove the black plastic parts on the LHS and RHS of the bike (that cover the ram air tubes) - there are two bolts and they are stuck to the fairings with a plastic wedge, loosen the biggest bolt on the fairings/frame to make it easier.

Remove your seat, then remove the 4 bolts holding the tank down.

Lift the rear and stick a rag under the bit you just unbolted to prevent the paint being scratched on the tank by the rear subframe. lift the front of the tank and wedge something between the tank and the airbox so that you can see the throttle bodies (i use an old engine oil bottle - follow the hoses from the tank to find the throttle bodies), dont unplug any pipes or anything but make as much room as you can so you can have a listen.

Start the bike, where is the noise coming from?

Injectors are on the gold pipe on the front of the throttle bodies, valves are under the big black plastic airbox at the top of the engine.

If your fairings are off then you can also listen at either side of the engine and really try and pinpoint it. Let us know how you get on.

 

I wasn't going to respond to this thread, as you're getting some really sound advice here, but THIS made me LOL.

At 9K your valves should be perfectly fine. Overfilling the oil is actually a common practice with stunters, as wheelies tend to drain oil from the engine. GSXR's have a problem with that, but the general consensus is that the Honda's can handle it with no issue. Yes, too much oil can blow seals, but like I said, the reports on that happening on an f4i are minimal.

 

well now that i know you're so sensitive to sound yeah you could very well be hearing the injectors. usually the average person doesnt unless they get horrible. but if the guy you bought it from put some injector cleaner and or octane booster you could be hearing that run out. how many tanks of gas have you run through it yourself? ohh and to check your valve clearance you have to remove your cam chain and cams then valves because its not like the average car. your bike has shimmed valves and you're checking the shims for tollerance IAW the manual. it really not that hard but i would have someone there if you go that far because reasembling it incorrectly can cost you a motor! but really.. at 9k unless that bike never left the drag strip it wouldnt be the valves.

 

You only need to take the cams out to adjust the clearance, to check them you need the cams in place . If the sound is REALLY bugging you then finding exactly where it is coming from is the first thing to do.

Prop[ing the tank up for a listen as I suggested would be the first thing I'd do - mechanics use a "mechanics" stethoscope (like a doctors one but with a long rod on the end to touch to different parts of the bike) which you can get for about £10 to isolate the location of noises.

Is it loud enough to record?

 

you got me. good catch. i meant to put adjust not check. alot of people think when they find one outta tolerance they just need to tighten or loosen a screw like a car. i was just warning him that to ADJUST one thats out of tolerance it takes alot of digging and should have some experience around.

 

I must admit I was very pleased when I found a cb250 I was working on had adjustable pushrods and tappets - 5 mins to pop the cover, 5 mins to measure and 5 mins to adjust vs 3-4 hours and a trip down the parts shop for the CBR!

 

Guys thanks very much for all the advice and info!! i managed to capture it on film a couple days ago and its gotten worse again! so tomorrow il make a youtube account and post up a 3 days ago and now video, you can hear the progression! thanks again!