Need help with parasitic draw 954rr
Hey guys, I'm a little stumped and need some help. The story goes like this....
I went to ride last week and noticed my battery was dead, barely got any lights to even flicker. Before getting a new battery I know to check for a parasitic draw first. Unfortunately there is one. It's not too bad, only 1.3 amps, but enough to kill a battery. So I start pulling fuses and see that the fuse for "clock/fan" is the circuit it's on. So I pull the fan relay and the draw is there...pull the wires to the fan motor..still there. Pull the speedometer harness and bam, the draw goes down to .13mah vs the 1.3A that it was at. So figuring that there is something wrong with the instrument cluster, I order another one (used obviously) and just got it. Hook it up aaand..... still there. Unplug it and it goes away. I'm not seeing any wires that are standing out as shorting or anything.....now what?
I went to ride last week and noticed my battery was dead, barely got any lights to even flicker. Before getting a new battery I know to check for a parasitic draw first. Unfortunately there is one. It's not too bad, only 1.3 amps, but enough to kill a battery. So I start pulling fuses and see that the fuse for "clock/fan" is the circuit it's on. So I pull the fan relay and the draw is there...pull the wires to the fan motor..still there. Pull the speedometer harness and bam, the draw goes down to .13mah vs the 1.3A that it was at. So figuring that there is something wrong with the instrument cluster, I order another one (used obviously) and just got it. Hook it up aaand..... still there. Unplug it and it goes away. I'm not seeing any wires that are standing out as shorting or anything.....now what?
Hey sorry to hear your having the same issue. Honestly I went through everything and never found the issue, even replacing the dash and other components. Checked everything, nothing. Even cut every wire on the main loom 1 by 1 and still never found it. So when I re spliced everything back together I just went to the auto store and bought a switch. I wired everything to that switch, so when I was riding I would turn the switch on, and when I was done riding I'd turn everything off with that switch. It worked, I hate that I couldn't fix the real issue, but it did allow me to not be stranded all the time. Hopefully that helps in some way.
Thanks for the reply dude. I have it narrowed down to one wire a red and green wire but even that is proving to be difficult to pinpoint what the actual problem is I can’t find a short or anything that would cause the power drain. If I ever figure it out I will let you know. Thank for the help.
Thanks for the reply dude. I have it narrowed down to one wire a red and green wire but even that is proving to be difficult to pinpoint what the actual problem is I can’t find a short or anything that would cause the power drain. If I ever figure it out I will let you know. Thank for the help.
red/grn wire only has 3-destinations:
- fan relay
- clocks
- unused connector at rear-left winker
If drain only occurs with clocks plugged in and stops with it unplugged, then wiring is ok. Something inside clocks is shorted and draining. Is your's like OP's where it only drains with clocks plugged in?
Rather than switch, you can wire in relay that's activated by... headlight power. Then red/grn wire's disconnected from clocks when bike is OFF. And is only reconnected when bike's ON.
- fan relay
- clocks
- unused connector at rear-left winker
If drain only occurs with clocks plugged in and stops with it unplugged, then wiring is ok. Something inside clocks is shorted and draining. Is your's like OP's where it only drains with clocks plugged in?
Rather than switch, you can wire in relay that's activated by... headlight power. Then red/grn wire's disconnected from clocks when bike is OFF. And is only reconnected when bike's ON.
Last edited by dannoxyz; May 27, 2023 at 11:53 AM.
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