Need help with CCT adjustment
To start off: I replaced my hydraulic CCT with a manual one because I was getting a rattling noise when the engine was under load. I never had the rattle noise at idle with the stock CCT.
Fast forward to today and I cant seem to get this adjustment right. When I first installed the APE CCT a month ago, I installed it and tightened it until the rattle (at idle) went away. I thought I was done.....but:
I took it for a spin today and the noise is there around 4k. So I brought it back in the garage and I tightned it some more. I took it for another spin and the noise seems to be louder and at lower RPMs too. Seems to be between 2000-3000 RPMS and 4000-5000 RPMS.
So should I tighten it some more or loosen it? I'm thinking about tightening it so it makes the noise at idle and then backing out a bit
Thanks
Fast forward to today and I cant seem to get this adjustment right. When I first installed the APE CCT a month ago, I installed it and tightened it until the rattle (at idle) went away. I thought I was done.....but:
I took it for a spin today and the noise is there around 4k. So I brought it back in the garage and I tightned it some more. I took it for another spin and the noise seems to be louder and at lower RPMs too. Seems to be between 2000-3000 RPMS and 4000-5000 RPMS.
So should I tighten it some more or loosen it? I'm thinking about tightening it so it makes the noise at idle and then backing out a bit
Thanks
If it's making a noise then it wants tightening, but there are other factors to consider, Milage??
the other thing is with the manual CCT is not to over do the tension you can put too much tension on it causing it to stretch beyond what the CCT can cope with
the other thing is with the manual CCT is not to over do the tension you can put too much tension on it causing it to stretch beyond what the CCT can cope with
thanks for the reply. I tightened it last night, until the point where it could barely run. It would die after a minute of running. I didnt get a chance to take it for a spin when it was like this.
I'm thinking I should back it out a bit and try it then (make sure it idles ok). The motor has 6000 miles on it, it has been a track bike it's whole life. I raced it last month with the noise present. I can feel the power loss.
Any more ideas?
Thanks for the response
I'm thinking I should back it out a bit and try it then (make sure it idles ok). The motor has 6000 miles on it, it has been a track bike it's whole life. I raced it last month with the noise present. I can feel the power loss.
Any more ideas?
Thanks for the response
there's no way you can feel the power loss...it would be too minute to notice...unless you've jumped teeth already and timing is all off...but if that happens you will know.
i say go back to stock. you can make the tension greater with the stock one by giving the spring more wounds.
assuming the bike is an F4 or F4i and others, the cctl is not hydraulic.
i say go back to stock. you can make the tension greater with the stock one by giving the spring more wounds.
assuming the bike is an F4 or F4i and others, the cctl is not hydraulic.
The bike is an F3. Did they have hydraulic tensioners?
Unfortunately I dont have any money left over to buy a new OEM one. I'm going to play with it some more tonight. The rattling noise is consistent with what everyone else reports (2-3k rpms and 4-5krpms). I did feel power loss when the noise appeared one race weekend. The bike didnt pull as hard in the upper RPMs.
thanks for the reply
Unfortunately I dont have any money left over to buy a new OEM one. I'm going to play with it some more tonight. The rattling noise is consistent with what everyone else reports (2-3k rpms and 4-5krpms). I did feel power loss when the noise appeared one race weekend. The bike didnt pull as hard in the upper RPMs.
thanks for the reply
ohhhhh...
did you put thread locker on it last time you adjusted it?
tighten it until you can't hear the noise anymore, then back it out until you can barely hear the noise, then 1/4 turn tighter.
did you put thread locker on it last time you adjusted it?
tighten it until you can't hear the noise anymore, then back it out until you can barely hear the noise, then 1/4 turn tighter.
No I didnt put thread locker. I just tightened the jam nut while holding the adjuster nut (with a 16mm wrench) to make sure it didnt move
I'll try your suggestions tonight, thanks
I'll try your suggestions tonight, thanks
it could be a valve collar come loose in the top of the head, I've heard of them doing that in the past but never come across it myself
that would be more consistant with a power loss,
that would be more consistant with a power loss,
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