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Have I bitten off more than I can chew?

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  #11  
Old 04-18-2009, 08:32 PM
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Went out to my local motor store today and picked up a oil filer wrench and a torque wrench - I had to go for a cheap non mechanical torque wrench as I couldnt afford a ratchet one. I hope it'll be OK and Ill be able to read the meter OK.

All I'm waiting for now is my downpipes and CCT (both due monday) and I'll get to work!

Oh, any recomendations on what oil to use when I do the change?
 
  #12  
Old 04-22-2009, 07:28 AM
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OK, I started to do the downpipes last night, and was undoing the nuts.... Both the nuts and studs were pretty old and rusty and one sheared off. I have decided to leave it for now until I ask you guy whether there is something like WD40 I should treat the nuts and studs with before I try undoing any more?

Also whats the best way to remove the broken stud? (Im probably not going to be able to get my hands on a welder )
 
  #13  
Old 04-22-2009, 12:41 PM
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If you are able to get the rest of the screws out, and that tube off, if there is any part of the screw sticking up above the manifold, it may just come out by hand, or if you can get a small vice grip on thepart sticking out, then great, problem solved. If it turns out that its broken off flush with the manifold, then more detailed suggestions follow:


Find some penetrating oil for the frozen fasteners, I suggest Kroil if you can find it. But be very careful when applying this, as it will attack plastic, rubber, etc. Now for the hard part- removing the broken one. get a left handed drill, (runs counterclockwise) and a matching EZ-out from your local hardware store. note the size of the stud you are removing, and they will help you choose the right size. Drill slowly and carefully, and many times the drill itself will back the stud out of the hole, without the need of the Ez-out. If the EZ-out is needed, tap it into the hole and use a tap wrench to back it out.

Another method to try is to use a small center punch and a hammer, tapping the broken screw in a counterclockwise direction, near the outside edge. once it starts moving, you will be able to spin it out with your fingertips. If you do this , just be sure you don't use the center punch at too extreme of an angle, or you could upset the first couple of threads in the hole, making it tighten up again.
Good luck!
 

Last edited by Shadowfax; 04-22-2009 at 12:46 PM.
  #14  
Old 04-22-2009, 01:14 PM
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Cool, thanks man. I just manage to get the rest of the bolts out without breaking any using some WD40 spray.

I think it looks like ill have abiout 10mm of stud to play with once the pipes are off so its looking promising. I did actually just order a bolt removing kit for £10 lol dont know how good it is but ill have a play when it arrives - looks like it consist of some drill bits and some reverse threaded bits for the drill too.

Just need to get the pipes off now, I can feel pipe 1 and 4 are both loose but the middle two are stuck fast. Any idea on how to free them up and get them off? Should I take a hammer to them?

Oh and do you think I should replace all of the studs now?
 
  #15  
Old 04-22-2009, 11:59 PM
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Spray it up good with the WD-40 if you don't have the penetrating oil, and let it leach in there until your screw extractor set arrives. when you say the inside pipes are stuck fast, do you mean the fasteners are out, and the pipes themselves are stuck, or that the fasteners are stuck? Either way, Don't use a hammer, if it doesn't come off easily, then there is a reason for it, maybe just really good gasket material, maybe a bracket holding those parts of the exhaust in another spot? try working the two inside pipes side to side rather than just trying to pull them straight off. If its the fasteners, then try a quick "snap" with your wrench, but use a pipe over the wrench handle, rather than a hammer. if neither, then maybe something's in the way. I don't have the same bike as you, so I can't be sure.
 

Last edited by Shadowfax; 04-23-2009 at 12:05 AM.
  #16  
Old 04-23-2009, 04:49 AM
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Hi Shadow, thanks for your repeated help! It's really appreciated. Soo, I sprayed them up with a load of WD40 last night (it's 11am here now). So I'll give it another go after I finnish work. There was one fastener under the bike too but I did remove that too, along with the slipon can and bracket. All fasteners are out now except the sheared stud. I guess it could be this sheared stud that is pinning it in place so I gave that a good spray too. I can't see anything else preventing it from coming off so if not the broken stud, it must be the gaskets.

I'll report back with an update later.. Fingers crossed!


Now I just need to remember 'patience and persistance'
 
  #17  
Old 04-23-2009, 03:38 PM
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Right, I spent a while this evening trying to get one intact stud out (havent tried with the broken one yet). I tried using 2 nuts, pliers etc.. No joy


Not sure what to do now. I think my 'drill in' extracor should arrive in the morning, but I have recently seen a stud extractor in my local diy store (one with the teeth that doesnt need drilling). Would this possibly work better?

Also, would it work putting some superglue on the thread of a nut and screwing it on and leaving it to dry?
 
  #18  
Old 04-23-2009, 06:38 PM
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Super glue wont help. If anything I would use locktite. But id wait for the screw extractor
 
  #19  
Old 04-24-2009, 10:01 AM
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*sigh*

Well, I tried using the stud puller today. No joy

All it managed to do is remove some of the thread. I don't know what to do now as I dont think I have room to use the screw extractor / drill.

Is it time to admit defeat after 4 days of trying? Should I just call someone in now?
 
  #20  
Old 04-27-2009, 12:10 PM
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Do you have any friends who are machinists/ tool makers? They would probably have experience with removing broken studs. If not, then yes, I would suggest bringing it in, rather than to risk damaging something that is more than just a bolt!
 
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