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F4 Cluster Diode Replacement

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Old Apr 4, 2020 | 11:11 PM
  #1  
Northern's Avatar
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Default F4 Cluster Diode Replacement

Background:
I have a '00 CBR600F4 which runs, but the tachometer/odometer didn't work (maybe coolant temp and speedometer as well, can't be sure).
I pulled apart the dash and found a 5.1Ohm/2W resistor under the speedo that was fried. I replaced that, and noticed a large diode beside it that seemed broken.
I didn't want to pull the diode to confirm it was bad/wait on parts again, so I put the dash on the bike and it worked, but the resistor began to smoke shortly after starting.

Today:
I tore the dash apart again. The diode is cracked through/obviously bad now, but I have no idea what to replace it.
The markings on the diode (ZD100 on the board) are as follows: 2Z 27A

Has anyone been through this before, or know how do decipher this into some sort of spec so I can find a replacement?


 
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Old Apr 4, 2020 | 11:20 PM
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Well, I found a polish electronics forum that was asking this same question and posted a datasheet. I finally managed to download it, and it looks like it has everything I need to find a replacement from digikey/mouser/etc.
I will report back on whether this works or not.
 
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Toshiba 2Z27 datasheet.pdf (116.1 KB, 76 views)
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Old Apr 4, 2020 | 11:42 PM
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A note to caution to you. A diode has to be installed in the proper direction. It only passes current one way. So if it doesn't work after you replace it, it's possible that it might be in backwards.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 09:37 PM
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I thought I already posted this here, but the following fixed the instrument cluster/dash:
(Note: The resistor that was bad hardly looked different than the others, just a slightly different shade in the middle than the others. So if you have this issue, look very closely or just test resistance with a DMM.)

I replaced the burned out resistor marked 5.1Ohm 2W with a similarly rated one:
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai.../A138476CT-ND/

I replaced the Toshiba 2Z27A 1.5W Zener Diode with the following:
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...35BRLGOSCT-ND/
This one is rated 3W but is physically much smaller.
I also bought a 1.3W one, which matched the specs a little more closely, but it was so small that I felt like I should try the 3W one first.

I only ran the bike for 15-20 minutes so far, just to confirm the coolant gauge was working. I'll report back once it has a few miles on it.
 

Last edited by Northern; Apr 22, 2020 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 09:44 PM
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Nice job and write up on the fix.
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 07:23 PM
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I have a post going under my Username 'Montmurf" and desperate for a fix....
Mine's a 99 600 F4. Intermittent Temp Gauge, Speed , and Tach. Everything else is fine. It usually happens on a hot engine after
shutting down engine and electrical. Startup again and the symptoms are back.
Today, worked on regulator /rectifier but it checked out as far as Multimeter work. Charging is working to the numbers too.
I thought maybe the regulator/ rectifier was overheating but I couldn't reproduce the problem after heating it with a heat gun.
 
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