hello all,
i just finished re-wetsanding my entire frame down from 1000-2000 grit and i want to use rouge to make it look extra chromish BUT, the rouge blocks i have are......well blocks. I dont know how the hell you rub this stuff on the buffing cloth because the rouge is solid. i got black, brown, red, white and blue all from sears. do i soak it in water to soften it up and then rub it on the cloth? need a little help
thanks

 

CBR900, welcome to the world of buff'n !!!!!!!!!! good for you!!!
I aplaud your tenacity, in work'n all the way up to 2000, oh ya!!!!!!! well here we go... first off, polishishing takes place as the top layers of material(molicules) are"smeared" togather. This takes place as friction and heat, do there thing.
Youv'e give'n yourself, a splendid running start. by wet sanding(awsome job,2000grt!!!!!!!)If you didn't, it might look motteld, as this gives a common texture,to start buff'n.
If all the previous grit patterns, have been smoothed, by the last wet sanding... it will be clear shortly, if not!!!!!

NOW... since you went the extra mile, w/ 2000, and we know that it was much finer, once you got started... Oh, compounds... Lets look at'em, that black, is super coase, don't let it come near your alum, It's for garden tools and harleys!!!!!! that brown, is a "medium" cut... still way too coarse for alum, thats been wet sanded, past about 400, it will eat grooves,w/ steady unmoving preasure,Yikesss!!!!!!! I don't use red med rouge.. as it'usualy too coarse for well sanded alum also. I use green, to start, white to finish. Red fine(don't know which you have) is FINE but is usualy used for silver /Gold ect. you might try it. I think since you've prep sanded so well... you might get away, w/ going straight to white. If it's too fine, you'll notice it dosen't remove the fine pattern, from sanding. Ok, get out the yellow pages, and call around to tool/abrasives places, and find some more compound, green, if the "test w/ white did'nt remove the 2000 grt pattern. Comes in a big bar, ask'm to sell ya a partial... it runs about 3.50lb, and some more white,too. about 1 1/2 lb. Oh ,the blue is usualy for plexiglass, never buff, w/ afiner grit than youv'e already used on the wheel, use a new wheel as you go, for each grit. you can go backwards to coarser, but then it's coarse for life !!!!!!
Wheels, awe, yes your original QQQQQQ... You have to use, at the very least a drill and mandrill and wheel, so sorry, you will never get the look, yer look'n for, by hand... as I mentioned ,In the begining, heat and friction. actualy heat, from the friction(from the preasure and abrasive compound). Get about 4" "spiral" sewn cotten wheel,spiral meaning sewn in rings, almost out to the edge. Check it up an a mandril, (a bolt, w/ large washers, will do. tighten well !!!!!!) SPINNING the wheel, w/ the drill... run the wheel on the edge of the compound, it will transfer to the wheel.
OH check to see... all sanding grt. is cleaned from the frame, If you "pick up this grt, you WIL pick that stuff up on the wheel and scratch the heck out of the frame, not good !!!!!!!!

Touch the wheel to the frame, about 4" or so, w/ the disk runing, the same direction (i like horizontal), always. Get the hang of WHEEL CONTROL... It will go easy, if you dont apply to much preasure... Grab and fling off into bad(unintentional) places, if you don't control it. the frame will begin to change !!!!!!! you know how you blended the sanding from one area to the next, while sanding???, same thing buff'n. NO CIRCLES.

As the compound is used up, on the wheel apply more... you dont need alot, but, enough... when you notice a metalic glaze on the wheel... take a Clean tool (I use nasty looking junk, cuts freezer food, yard sale knive) and scrape the wheel, while spinning. HEY, hang onto that tool and drill well...ACCIDENTS, can happen!!!! If your getting a bunch of Fluff, from the wheel, while buff'n, you need more compound. You'll get the hang, fast !!!!!!! PATIANCE, as you work the surface, evenly. your signature of technique, will show up here

WARNING... this stuff is nasty to lungs and eyes, and as w/ all tools, use eye safety, atleast a paper face mask, and common sense...
Back to it... after youv'e gone about as shiny as you can... clean frame abrasive off... go to white(if you started w/ green), do it all again. If you prepped really wel

 

thanks alot for your help rippn. i was going to try all the rouges, but thanks for telling me i shouldnt use brown and black. i have a drill but, im gonna try and use a mandrel on a dremel maybe to transfer the rouge to the buffing wheel, maybe that'll work. I'll get pictures on here soon.

 

Hey yo 9'r, glad you had the patiance, to read thru... on other forums, I'm know as "the man of 500 word sentances"!!!!!!!!
About that dremal... It may work for really tight spots... but you want to use the larger wheel for almost everything. It's kind of like buff'n your car, w/ one finger tip... it wouldn't make for the large blend pattern, so important for a unpatterned (even) finish. I use dremal types, for case screw indents on covers, and around mounting tabs, ect. Try to do all this tight work first, as you will want to overal blend, in the finish. This over all blend, is so important... as it is, other than shine, what might catch your eye. Sort of a wavy, swirly, inconsistant pattern, not what you want.
another thing... there may be places on your frame, that may be raw castings.. Unless you are going to the sick exstent, of sanding these down...usually areal pain, just generaly polish, and leave as is.

about that final protection... altho powder coating is the coolest, and most durable... Unless your buff'n is perfect... it is set in stone, after powder. clear coats,(automotive) are used also. again, perfect job?? Its in stone again, but maybe stripped easly, if needed. There is the great debate, about get'n clear coat, to adhere to a buffed surface. One of my valued friends(all are),is a 1#auto painter, he says,"it's a matter of getting the right product and residue cleaning... do i feel comfy, about a winter of salt???? kind of sqweemish !!!!!!!! yor call...
WAX, fine carnuba wax !!!!!!!!! It is what the hi caliber restoration people swear by. Also af a touch up buff is needed, it is a "open coat " to do the rebling work. I have re touched alot of spots, because of wear, general road filth areas, wax, makes it a snap!!!!!!

Again, I want to say, buffing compounds, are the nasty stuff imaginable... Real black lung stuff!!!!!!! use a respirator, cheap paper suits w' head piece, at the auto paint supply store are well worth the under 10$ investment. Many buffers say to use something like "lava soap" to remove the insipide "black" residue... not automotive type chemicals, as all the stuf gets sucked up thru your skin... and a frame is a larger job, lots of guk!!!!!!!!! Face shields, or as secure from fling as you can... this stuff will make your eyes feel like the were in the making of" flight of the pheonix". Contacts, are a realy nasty deal w/ all buffing compounds too.

My hat is off to you, you are showing the real spirit of craftmanship, and the patiance, and skills you will learn, will pay off in all your endevors!!!!!!! can't wait for photos, but take your time. What till the admirers ask,"who did your frame"???!!!!!!! and your grin'n well deserved reply... I DID!!!!!!!!!! Clean and free, Ripp'n