99 F4. Need to get sprockets (thinking -1/+2 on a 525 chain) and I have some questions.

- Aluminum rear sprockets? Seems to me aluminum isn't the best material for making a sprocket out of as the weight savings is comparatively minimal with significant wear reduction.

- General consensus seems to be that the 525 chain is the best size to go with since it lasts longer than the 520 and there are more options for it than the 530. However, looking on sites for sprockets, there are very few options for 525 (none for 530) but LOTS of options for 520. That makes me lean towards 520.

- For a 100% street bike that just gets ridden to work/class/out with friends and never sees above 100, what issues would I encounter going to say a -2/+4? Running the numbers with such a ratio, RPM moves to 6724 at 70MPH in 6th (vs 5498 stock), but that doesn't seem like such of an issue for a bike that will only see 10-15mins of highway speed per trip. I'm sure fuel economy will suffer some, but compared to my Chevy Tahoe, WOT all the time would still be saving gas.

- Whats a good chain to get (company and type)? I have a 600RR swing arm on my F4 and I remember people mentioning that requires a longer (2 or 3 links) chain. Clymer says stock F4 chain length is 110 with 600RR using a 112. If I'm going with a -1/+2, I would think it advisable to go with a 116 (and then remove links) to be safe? Is there any way to calculate needed chain length?

Thanks

 

i would go with a longer chain and take links out. Is it a stunt bike? why the -2 +4 and why not a -1 +2. The -1 +2 is plenty for low end power but the -2 +4 is more of a stunt bike set up

 

No stunting. I just see the bike has a 150MPH top end and thus a lot of "wasted" RPM range. Since I never plan to go over 100 around here, I was tossing the idea around of pulling the RPM down more and getting more usable power. -1/+2 is what I currently have in mind, but I might as well bring up the option before I buy.

 

i agree on the waste of a top end if your bike never sees it. but the -1 +2 is the most extreme i would do to it in case you have an urge to do a trip over 30 minutes

 

Segraves, check the announcements at the top of the page for details on RK Chain discounts for CBRF members for up to 30% on chains/sprockets.

Also be sure to check w/ Sprocket Center . They have been very good in my experience.

RK & D.I.D chains are factory Honda OEM chains.

Per your parameters of 100% street bike... There really isn't a reason to run aluminum sprockets, which will wear quicker - requiring replacement sooner (chain too). Steel sprockets will certainly suffice for that "100% street bike". The OEM 525 chain size is optimal as well.

I wouldn't run a -2/+4 set up either. -1/+2 is good for that extra acceleration. Of course, as you state, the rpm will increase at higher speed...an acceptable trade-off if very little highway riding is done.

I'm a regular twisty rider & I'm currently running the stock setup...16/45 (Honda steel sprockets) & D.I.D Gold chain at 108 links. While the F4 manual states 110 links, 108 is more optimal for the F4 using 16/45(or46). For reference, the F4i runs 108 links on 16/46.

Have a look at Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator for some numbers.

 

RK or DID? they both seem to cost about the same (with DID being slightly more expensive).

I read a writeup on here where the author said the best way to set the chain length was to push the wheel all the way forward, overlap the chain and cut the link, then adjust the wheel towards the back to tighten up the chain.

 

Either/Or. Your call. I've run both in 'Gold'. Both will provide excellent service, provided proper chain maintenance is done.

Yeah, eyeballing it will work. Measure twice, cut once. ;-)