Bike ran fine when parked now wont start?
#1
#2
So many things could be wrong with your bike, but try this: Open the throttle to the fully open position and either press the starter button or kick it over with the kick starter. If the engine was flooded by your trying to start it earlier, this should clear any excess fuel and it may even start. You say you are getting a spark and fuel, so unless the timing is out, then it should certainly start up with no problems. You can check the ignition timing by removing a small plug on the left-hand side of the engine at the front. You should be able to see some timing marks on the rotor face. There may be two; one is for top dead centre where the piston is at the highest point in its stroke and the other one is for the advance postion of the piston where it will be a set number of degress before TDC, as the fuel is ignited by the spark plug. Take out the spark plug, lay it on the cylinder head to earth it then with the ignition on and with the help of a friend, turn the engine over in gear using the rear wheel slowly and watch for a spark at the plug when the advance mark on the rotor is in line with a fixed pointer on the outer crankcase cover. If the plug sparks and the marks line up then the timing is ok. If the plug fires, but the marks don't line up then you will have to turn the backplate of the ignition unit on the other side of the bike (usually!) to advance or retard the point at which the spark occurs as the two marks on the rotor and outer crankcase marks align. I know I have given you a lot to think about and do, but it is quite simple really, but get the help of a friend or someone who has done this before for advice on how to do it. Sorry for the long post, but that is the first thing I would check. Get back to me if you need more help.
#3
ok i will try that and see if it is in time but i was also wondering if it could be the ignition coil? because i think it is a weak spark
So many things could be wrong with your bike, but try this: Open the throttle to the fully open position and either press the starter button or kick it over with the kick starter. If the engine was flooded by your trying to start it earlier, this should clear any excess fuel and it may even start. You say you are getting a spark and fuel, so unless the timing is out, then it should certainly start up with no problems. You can check the ignition timing by removing a small plug on the left-hand side of the engine at the front. You should be able to see some timing marks on the rotor face. There may be two; one is for top dead centre where the piston is at the highest point in its stroke and the other one is for the advance postion of the piston where it will be a set number of degress before TDC, as the fuel is ignited by the spark plug. Take out the spark plug, lay it on the cylinder head to earth it then with the ignition on and with the help of a friend, turn the engine over in gear using the rear wheel slowly and watch for a spark at the plug when the advance mark on the rotor is in line with a fixed pointer on the outer crankcase cover. If the plug sparks and the marks line up then the timing is ok. If the plug fires, but the marks don't line up then you will have to turn the backplate of the ignition unit on the other side of the bike (usually!) to advance or retard the point at which the spark occurs as the two marks on the rotor and outer crankcase marks align. I know I have given you a lot to think about and do, but it is quite simple really, but get the help of a friend or someone who has done this before for advice on how to do it. Sorry for the long post, but that is the first thing I would check. Get back to me if you need more help.
#5
Some, but not all bike shops have coil testing equipment. Phone around and see if you can find a shop near you that can test it.
Interesting to hear of a 75 engine these days. Takes me back....
How old is the gas in the tank? If its been sitting around a long time it may be worth draining the tank and filling with some fresh juice.
If you've followed highways tips and still no joy then the next thing would be a check of the fuel system and carb. It is a single carb isn't it?
Does it have points or was it an optical timing version?
Interesting to hear of a 75 engine these days. Takes me back....
How old is the gas in the tank? If its been sitting around a long time it may be worth draining the tank and filling with some fresh juice.
If you've followed highways tips and still no joy then the next thing would be a check of the fuel system and carb. It is a single carb isn't it?
Does it have points or was it an optical timing version?
#6
i believe its fresh gas but i think i will drain it 2 be sure. and it is 2 carbs
Some, but not all bike shops have coil testing equipment. Phone around and see if you can find a shop near you that can test it.
Interesting to hear of a 75 engine these days. Takes me back....
How old is the gas in the tank? If its been sitting around a long time it may be worth draining the tank and filling with some fresh juice.
If you've followed highways tips and still no joy then the next thing would be a check of the fuel system and carb. It is a single carb isn't it?
Does it have points or was it an optical timing version?
Interesting to hear of a 75 engine these days. Takes me back....
How old is the gas in the tank? If its been sitting around a long time it may be worth draining the tank and filling with some fresh juice.
If you've followed highways tips and still no joy then the next thing would be a check of the fuel system and carb. It is a single carb isn't it?
Does it have points or was it an optical timing version?
#7
I forgot to mention that if you have a contact points ignition, (which I think you have because a friend of mine had the same bike in the 70s) you should first of all check the gap between the contacts. From memory the gap should be between 0.015" and 0.018" (15 to 18 thousands of an inch). To check, turn engine over slowly with ignition OFF and with the contact breaker cover removed. Get the heel of the contact breakers onto the highest point of the exhaust cam. Check gap with feeler gauges between the two point faces to figures above and if it needs adjusting there are two screws on the moveable backplate that have to be loosened slightly so that you can turn the plate anticlockwise or clockwise to achieve the correct measurement. Once the gap is correct you then need to refer to my earlier post about timing. A weak plug spark can occur if you have a small gap at the points and will also affect the timing, usually advancing it if I'm not mistaken. Sorry I forgot all this!
#8
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jbalber
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10-02-2012 05:52 PM